Exterior

There is a lot of confusion regarding the lifespan of exterior paint jobs. In some cases, a professional painter may guarantee as little as two years, while some companies boast 100 years or longer. Getting a proper estimate for your own home requires the consideration of numerous variables, many of which you have little or no control over.

On the most basic level, properly applied exterior acrylic paint will last 5-10 years, with latex and oil-based paints lasting slightly less. These estimates are difficult to apply universally, as climate, the material being painted, brand of paint, and the quality of the job itself can all affect how soon you will need to repaint.

The following factors should all be considered when preparing to paint your home, and may help you with a more accurate estimate for your project’s lifespan.

Avoidable Factors

There are several factors which can reduce the lifespan of an exterior paint job. Some of these are more avoidable than others. Of those factors which you have control, preparation and curing time are the two most vital factors and should never be neglected.

Color

The color you choose will actually have a major affect on how well the paint holds up over time. Darker colors tend to absorb more sunlight, causing them to fade faster. This means you may estimate the sunny side of your home to need to be repainted in three to five years for a dark paint, and five to seven years for a light paint if the sheltered side has a lifespan of ten years.

Curing

Exterior paint requires time to thoroughly dry, and a dry surface doesn’t always mean the paint has finished curing. Most exterior latex paints require 4-6 hours to dry, but 24 hours is the ideal amount of time to properly cure.

A good rule of thumb is to paint your home at a time when you expect to have no rain for at least 12 hours, preferably a full day. Oil-based paints take the longest time to cure, while latex and acrylic both dry quickly.

More importantly, you should pay attention to humidity levels. A good rain after six hours will do less harm than painting in high humidity, as the moisture will slow or even prevent proper curing.

In some extreme cases, fog or high humidity has resulted in the paint melting completely away. For this reason, you should always pick a day with relatively low humidity to paint an exterior wall.

Materials and Techniques

One of the greatest things you can do to get the most out of a paint job is to invest in the project. Your caulking, paint, and primer should all be quality brands and designed specifically for exterior use.

Choose a satin or semi-gloss enamel for the trim. A flat finish works best for siding, while 100 percent acrylic is the most durable paint type. Oil-based paints are also durable, but may be regulated in your area due to the presence of VOCs.

Having the right technique will also help you get the maximum lifespan out of a job. Always start at the top with the overhangs, then work your way down. This helps prevent the paint from dripping or running over an already-painted surface.

Using an airless sprayer to lay the primer and paint, then going back over with a good-quality roller will improve adhesion and uniformity. Once the walls are finished, place painter’s tape over the edges of doors and windows and begin working on the trim.

Removing the tape immediately after will help reduce the amount of residue left behind. Touch up the trim as needed after the paint has dried.

Preparation

Paint is only as good as the surface it is applied to, and failing to properly prepare your exterior walls can lead to chipping or peeling after only a short time.

The previous paint should be scraped down as much as possible to remove any peeled or loose fragments. Sanding further smooths out the surface for better adhesion. Old paint can often de-laminate over time, which will affect younger coats.

The entire surface should be hosed down to get rid of any dust or dirt, then allowed to dry before applying any paint, as even a small amount of dirt can weaken the adhesion and lead to peeling.

Use quality caulk to seal around windows and other gaps. Finally, adding a good primer is essential to a lasting paint job and reducing the effects of weather to the underlying materials, especially wood.

Unavoidable Factors

No matter how much effort you put into creating a top-notch paint job, there are some factors which are beyond your control. These can often cause a quality paint job to fade or chip in a fraction of the time that same job would last elsewhere.

Location and Weather Patterns

One of the biggest factors that can reduce the lifespan of your paint job is the location of your home. An arid environment will age the paint much slower than a humid environment, and a location near an ocean or sea can cause a paint job to degrade approximately five times as fast.

Weather patterns also play a major role in how quickly a paint job degrades. In regions with mild weather throughout the year, your paint job will last much longer than in a region with heavy snows or harsh temperature fluctuations. Heavy storms, hail, and frequent violent winds can cause the paint to scratch or blister. Over time, this will lead to chipping, peeling, and fading.

Sunlight

Sunlight poses its own threat to your home’s exterior paint. While it is unlikely to chip the paint on its own, direct sunlight for long periods will start to fade the paint. This is more noticeable with darker colors than light, and the side that faces the sun will fade faster than the shaded sides of your home.

Underlying Material

The material you are painting will have a major effect on the lifespan of your paint job. Wood surfaces tend to degrade the fastest, followed by brick or stucco. Aluminum and vinyl siding can retain paint for 20 years or longer, when properly applied.

The lifespan for wood may be extended somewhat by sealing any gaps and using a quality primer, although the shorter lifespan becomes quite apparent when wooden trim is painted alongside a more durable wall material.

Siding has many functions beyond the obvious aesthetic purpose of keeping the outside of your home attractive in all seasons. The material that clads the outside of your house must protect exterior wall sheathing from deterioration due to moisture, insects and UV exposure. Siding sheds rain and snow effectively and may contribute to the home’s overall insulation factor by helping inhibit heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer.

The right type of siding also gives your home more fire resistance from outside sources. Unless your house is brick or stucco, or you are living in a log cabin, some form of siding is probably affixed to the exterior. While numerous siding options are now available, two of the most prominent are aluminum and vinyl.

Unlike varieties of wood siding such as cedar, both are non-organic materials and factory produced. This fact alone adds to the consistency of both materials over natural alternatives, as well as more options for size and texture.

Here’s a compare-and-contrast look at the current state of aluminum versus vinyl siding.

Aluminum Siding Pros and Cons

Metallic siding began with the use of thin steel panels in the 1920s. The trend never really caught on, however. It wasn’t until World War II where the widespread utilization of aluminum for a variety of purposes led to the development of construction applications.

In the 1950s, aluminum siding took off in mass-produced residential housing, particularly lower-priced homes in new postwar subdivisions. During the 1970s energy crisis, use of aluminum siding declined somewhat as its production, in those days, was fairly energy-intensive.

Here are some of the reasons why aluminum siding became the standard of postwar America and why it is still utilized in many residential applications today.

Durability

Produced from aluminum coil stock material, aluminum siding is first coated with an anti-corrosive formula, then coloration is baked on for design and additional protection. A final enamel layer may be added to facilitate imprinting the material with various textures.

Since it’s metallic, aluminum is very resistant to wear and exposure. Properly installed and maintained aluminum siding should last 35 years or more, a superior lifespan compared to vinyl. Should damage occur, aluminum is considered to be very repairable, as well, simply by cutting out and replacing the affected segment.

Low Cost

Aluminum siding is one of the most cost-effective siding materials available. Aluminum is less costly than around 80 percent of other commonly available siding types. It is very lightweight, a factor that also reduces installation expenses.

Insulation Value

The heavier grades of aluminum siding, such as those in the range of 44 to 53 gauge, provide good insulation value to inhibit heat transfer and help control heating and cooling costs.

Waterproof

The prevalence of aluminum boats and aircraft tells you a great deal about the water and rust resistance of aluminum siding. It does not absorb moisture, rot or support the growth of mildew or toxic mold.

Insect Protection

Non-organic metallic aluminum is not attractive to insects. Compared to wood siding that frequently becomes a haven for termites and other destructive insects, aluminum is considered completely impervious to pests.

Fire Safety

Aluminum is not merely “fire-resistant” like other specially-treated siding materials, it’s completely non-flammable and will not ignite, burn or melt. Some homeowner’s insurance companies offer discounts on fire insurance for houses with aluminum siding.

Low Temperature Resistance

Unlike vinyl siding, which may become brittle and/or crack in extreme cold spells, aluminum remains intact and impact resistant at any low temperature.

Recyclability

Aluminum siding will never end up taking space in a landfill. It has high recycle value and is considered a “green” material.

It’s a fact that aluminum siding has lost market share over recent decades to other types of siding. Some of the reasons driving this shift toward other alternatives include:

Denting and Scratching

Aluminum siding can be dented by objects ranging from a tossed baseball to large hail. While a single individual dent may be repairable, large numbers require replacement of the entire siding. Scratches may also be more conspicuous in aluminum than vinyl as the scratch removes the surface coloring.

Fading and Refinishing

Exposed to sunlight and heat, aluminum siding may fade over the years and require repainting. If oxidation is present, preparing the surface for repainting may be a labor-intensive process.

Aesthetic Issues

Despite improvements in manufacturing and the texturing process, aluminum will always have a slightly metallic appearance, especially when viewed up-close. For some homeowners, this is not the exterior appearance they are striving for.

Noise

Heavy rain striking aluminum siding creates a louder patter sound than rainfall on other materials, which can be aggravating to some homeowners.

Vinyl Siding Pros and Cons

Technically called polyvinyl chloride, PVC was first utilized for the manufacture of exterior siding at the beginning of the Sixties. It was the 1970s, however, before vinyl siding began to really capture market share from aluminum and other materials. By 1992, over 2 billion feet of vinyl siding was installed.

Most vinyl siding consists of two layers: a lower substrate that provides structural strength and a top, outside layer that contains weatherproofing compounds. These two layers are extruded together into a single strip.

Today, vinyl siding is the most popular exterior cladding, followed by fiber cement and stucco. Here are some reasons why vinyl still reigns in both new construction as well as siding upgrades.

Affordability

Basic standard vinyl siding is a low-cost alternative. The price range is approximately $2.00 up to $12.00 per square foot depending on the type of vinyl. It competes favorably with aluminum siding that is priced in the range of approximate $3.00 to $6.00 per square foot. Cost recovery in the form of increased home resale value after installing vinyl is also very positive.

Durability

Most vinyl siding is twice as thick as aluminum. This bulk provides greater resistance to impact damage. Because vinyl is a resilient material, it tends to absorb impact and spring back without deforming or denting.

Colorfastness

Because the pigment in vinyl siding permeates the entire material, scratches and scrapes are less conspicuous than is the case with aluminum. Colorants incorporated in vinyl siding tend to be less affected by UV exposure than the paints used for aluminum siding, which may fade after years.

Simple Maintenance

Most dirt and grime doesn’t adhere very tightly to vinyl siding. Hosing down vinyl siding and sponging especially grimy spots with common household cleaner is generally sufficient to keep it looking new.

Installation

Installing vinyl is a familiar procedure for virtually any siding contractor. You won’t need a specialist. This fact keeps the installation portion of the total expense low. If you are handy with basic hand tools and comfortable on a ladder, DIY installation of vinyl siding is also doable.

More Color Variety

The available shades for vinyl siding have increased dramatically over recent years. For the consumer who shops around, as many as 400 different colors are available, the widest variety for any type of siding material.

The fact that vinyl is still top dog in new siding installations doesn’t mean the competition isn’t gaining. While it still occupies the #1 slot as far as total square feet installed per year, its market share is at risk from other competitors, chiefly fiber cement.

Here are some of the downsides of vinyl that may cause consumers to consider other alternatives.

Cold Weather Matters

Vinyl exposed to frigid temperatures can become brittle and may be prone to splitting if subjected to impact during very cold weather.

Water Retention Issues

An external wall covered with vinyl siding is considered water-resistant, not waterproof. The way vinyl siding is installed against the wall can pose a risk of water retention, especially after wind-driven rain. Trapped moisture that seeps behind the siding may persist and damage wood wall cladding and/or trigger mold and mildew. Installers must prepare the installation surface by following guidelines such as installing building paper or “housewrap” behind the vinyl to prevent water damage.

Insulation Value

The good news is that insulation applied to the back of vinyl siding called form-fitting expanded polystyrene (EPS) adds an insulating factor of R2 to R2.7 to help inhibit home heat gain and loss. The bad news is that only the high-end, more expensive product includes this insulating material, typically at a cost of 50% more than conventional vinyl siding.

Heat Performance

Vinyl siding has a flame ignition temperature of about 730 degrees—higher than the ignition point of wood framing in a house, which is about 500 degrees. However, lower temperature heat may affect vinyl in other ways due to its relatively low melting temperature of only about 165 degrees.

Heat from nearby sources such as a gas or charcoal barbecue grill, outdoor patio heater, very hot exterior lights or even—on occasion—concentrated sunlight reflected by windows in a neighboring house can deform vinyl siding. Darker color vinyl siding that absorbs more heat energy is more likely to deform.

The modern version of fiber cement siding dates back to the 1980s when the Australian company, James Hardie Inc., perfected a new process to fabricate fiber cement siding without asbestos commonly used in cement siding of yesteryear. A man-made material composed of a blend of cement, silica and natural cellulose fibers, the mixture is pressed wet into molds to form clapboard planks or shingles sized for use as exterior siding.

Once cured, before shipping the product may be painted in a variety of desirable exterior colors. If not painted at the factory, it will be given a primer coat and can then be painted onsite after installation. Fiber cement siding is manufactured in several textures from a contemporary smooth finish to a rough, rustic wood appearance.

Now sold under a number of major brand names, modern fiber cement siding caught on gradually but has recently accelerated its capture of market share from the long-time leader in exterior siding: PVC vinyl.

Today, the future looks even brighter as fiber cement siding is forecast to experience almost 50 percent growth over the five-year period between 2013 and 2018 while vinyl siding growth will lag at about 28 percent during the same time span.

Residential installations represent the overwhelming majority of fiber cement’s booming market share. Fully 15 percent of new home construction makes use of fiber cement siding.

Here are some of the pros that help explain the rapid growth of fiber cement siding in homes, contrasted with a few of the drawbacks that homeowners also should consider before making a decision:

Advantages of Fiber Cement Siding

Durability

Just the name—“fiber cement”—has an industrial-strength ring to it. Indeed, this product is considered the most resistant to common enemies of residential siding. The material doesn’t rot or warp and is crack-resistant. UV exposure does not degrade it and it resists hail, snow and ice. Wind is not a threat: In locales that experience a high incidence of hurricanes or tornadoes, many local building codes actually specify the use of fiber cement siding.  Pests that attack conventional wood siding, notably termites and woodpeckers, show no interest in fiber cement.

Environmentally Neutral

In finished form, fiber cement siding isn’t recyclable, per se. However, unlike PVC siding, a petroleum product that breaks down and releases toxins inside landfills, the ingredients of fiber cement siding are considered environmentally inert and do not degrade into damaging substances.

Longevity

Fiber cement siding typically offers an estimated maximum 50-year service life for non-backcoated product and 75 years for backcoated versions. Warranty coverage for the product typically extends from 30 to 50 years. If the siding was painted during the original manufacturing process, the factory coat of paint may also carry a guarantee against fading, peeling, chips and other defects for a specific span of years, usually around 15.

Fire Safety

This one’s pretty much a no-brainer. Wood siding adds more fuel and more flame to a house fire. PVC vinyl siding requires temperatures around 700 degrees to actually ignite, however, it melts and falls off the house at temperatures as low as only 165 degrees. Fiber cement siding is generally unaffected by both heat and flame. It has a Class 1(A) rating for fire/flame spread, the highest available rating.

Disadvantages of Fiber Cement Siding

Insulation Value

The insulating factor of exterior siding helps minimize household heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. The higher the insulation R-value, the more effectively the material retards the movement of heat energy into or out of the house.

Fiber cement and vinyl offer insulation R-values of .5 and .61, respectively—pretty much a draw. However, vinyl siding potentially gains a greater edge if the homeowner opts for insulated vinyl siding that increases the R-value to 2. That extra R-value comes with a cost, though, boosting the price of insulated vinyl by as much as 40 percent.

Cost

The installed price of fiber cement siding can run substantially more than vinyl siding and generally averages between and $6.00 and $11.00 per square foot. Vinyl siding typically costs $3.00 to $4.00 per square foot. In the spectrum of siding choices, fiber cement is more expensive than vinyl, about the same cost as hardboard or composite siding and cheaper than brick and synthetic stucco.

Installation Issues

Some handy homeowners successfully manage DIY vinyl siding replacement. The tools are common and the product is fairly light. Even when hiring a contractor to do the job, installation costs of vinyl are comparatively low.

Fiber cement, however, is another matter. The word “cement” is the tip-off: the product weighs about 300 pounds per each 100 square feet, versus about 60 pounds for the same amount of vinyl siding. Installation typically requires a crew of experienced professional installers with specialized expertise and tools. The job is definitely not a do-it-yourself project and, when handled by a contractor, the expense of installing fiber cement represents a greater portion of the total cost of the project than vinyl siding.

Maintenance Matters

The factory paint coat on fiber cement siding could last up to 25 years before painting is required. Colorfast vinyl siding will never require repainting, however. Maintenance recommendations for both vinyl siding and fiber cement siding are similar and straightforward—spray down with garden hose or other low-pressure water source every 6 to 12 months, sponge away any dirt or grime with soapy water.

Consumer Caveats

Quality of vinyl siding is tested and certified by ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) International. Currently, fiber cement siding is not tested and certified by any similar quality control agency.

However, many sources of fiber cement are well-established name-brand companies with reputations for quality—the company that actually invented the product is among them—so taking care to deal with only recognized, standout manufacturers of the material as well as reputable local contractors is advised.

While vinyl siding isn’t about to become extinct anytime soon, the benefits and popularity of fiber cement siding are making a major dent in vinyl’s dominance in the marketplace. Adequate data from major manufacturers of both products is as close as a few clicks on a search engine. Arm yourself with accurate information and make the choice that works for you.

Whether your garage is attached or separate, the garage door is an important part of your home’s security. Chances are, if your garage door isn’t functioning properly, you have a broken torsion spring. These springs cannot be repaired and must be replaced. But before you attempt to replace the spring yourself, it is vital to understand how they work and the risks involved.

Safety Around Garage Door Torsion Springs 101

Unlike mouse traps and the doors on digital cameras, a garage door requires a large enough amount of pressure that the torsion springs used are capable of removing limbs if not handled carefully. As it is possible for even seasoned professionals to be injured while replacing these strings, it is paramount to understand the risks involved and follow safety procedures precisely to minimize the chances of an accident.

Why Do They Break?

Perhaps the most important safety warning for torsion spring replacement is understanding why they break. Garage door springs are designed to bear the heavy weight of the door. The high level of torque necessary creates stress on the spring, limiting its lifespan.

Modern garage door springs are rated for ten thousand cycles. Each time you open the garage door counts as a cycle, meaning heavy usage will shorten the lifespan of your springs significantly. Rust will also drastically increase the risk of your springs breaking; therefore use extra caution if rust is present.

Working with Older Winding Cones

There are sometimes sizing issues in older winding cones which require special attention. For example, Crawford and Mckee winding cones were originally designed for a five-eighths inch bar. To avoid a serious risk of uncoiling, it is advised that you grind down a five-eighths inch bar to fit instead of using a half-inch bar.

Other outdated models, such as BarCol, Raynor, and Overhead suffer from inconsistently-sized holes. The lack of standardization raises major safety concerns due to the high amount of play they sometimes have. Newer models have less than one and one-half inch of play to reduce the risk of the cones spinning loose. Hire a professional if there is more than two inches of play.

Hiring a Professional

Due to the safety hazard posed by incorrectly handling a torsion spring, you may opt to have the repair done professionally. A pair of replacement torsion springs will generally run between $80 and $200 and should be bought from the manufacturers or a reliable reseller. Extended lifespan springs will last approximately four times as long as standard springs at twice the cost.

Professional repair typically runs between $45 and $65 for labor. Unless there are additional fees, you may expect to pay approximately $250 for regular torsion spring installation and $450 for extended lifespan springs.

Replacing Torsion Springs by Yourself

Since the advent of electric garage doors, there have been numerous variations in design, especially in regards to winding coils. Modern garage door manufacturers tend to adhere to a standard design, often it making it easier and safer for the DIYer to perform their own repairs. As it is difficult to cover all variations in a single guide, you should be aware of any deviations in your garage door design and hire a professional to perform repairs if you have an older or unusual setup.

Measuring the Torsion Spring

Not all torsion springs are the same length, so you will need to measure the existing springs. Take a tape measure and check the length of each spring, being careful not to touch the spring or winding coil. In the event the coil has broken, you will need to loosen the set screws of the cone and slide it until the pieces of spring are touching. Your replacement coils are measured based upon overall length, the length of 20 coils, and the inside diameter of the coils.

Preparation

Prior to working on your garage door, you will need to ensure that the door is closed and any power supply cut. In newer doors, this involves simply unplugging a power cord. For older, hard-wired doors, you will need to flip your circuit breaker or remove the fuse. Once the power is off, you will need to set the trolley disconnect into the neutral position. The L-shaped drawbar arm will need to be manually disconnected on older doors. Have the following tools on-hand:

• protective eyewear
• two 10-inch vice grips
• portable lamp (if the garage is not well-lit)
• file
• sturdy ladder
• two one-half inch by 18 inch winding bars
• adjustable wrench or socket set

Replacing the Torsion Spring on Overhead Doors

Most overhead doors use torsion springs on both sides of the door. Some doors involve only one spring or a different configuration. To avoid injury, do not follow these instructions if you have a low-headroom door or unusual configuration.

Step 1: Determine the left and right springs

Stand each spring upright against the door. The end of the left spring at the winding cone will be facing left and right on a right spring. The winding cones may also be color-coded: black for left red for right.

Step 2: Mark the torsion shaft

You will need to mark the torsion shaft to help you balance the doors later on. Use a file or marker to mark a line on the torsion shaft and each drum, being careful not to touch either. If the cables have come off of the drums, wrap them back around before marking. Be warned that serious injury may result from directly touching the drum or shaft while the spring is still wound.

Step 3: Preparing the winding bar

You should never use any tool other than a properly fitting, 16-inch long winding bar to unwind a spring. The ends should not be rounded or cut at an angle. If you do not already have a winding bar, you may find 32-inch long metal rods at most hardware stores and have them cut in half at the time of purchase.

Insert the bar into the bottom-most hole on the winding cone and turn it down slightly to ensure the set screws are tight. Place your measuring tape behind the bar against the garage door and gently move the bottom of the bar from side to side. If you are showing more than two inches of play, do not attempt the replacement yourself. Ideally, there should be less than one and one-half inch of play.

Next, make sure the bar is inserted all the way. You should be able to hear when it hits the torsion shaft. Use electrical tape to mark the end of the bar where it enters the cone. This will help you verify the bar is completely inserted each time you change holes.

Step 4: Unwinding the torsion spring

Insert one of the bars into the cone and hold it firmly. One bar must be kept in the cone at all times during winding and unwinding to avoid spin outs. Use a small adjustable wrench to loosen the set screws, transferring the torque to the bar. Over-tightened screws may take one full turn or more. You may have to loosen the screws several times before the torsion spring has completely unwound.

In some circumstances, the spring may refuse to unwind, even after the set screws are completely removed. This is often caused by a distorted torsion shaft or rust. Pull down on the bar, being ready for the cone to loosen at any point. If this has no effect, use a hammer to tap the bar beside the cone to force the latter loose. Keep a firm grip on the winding bar at all times and be ready for potential problems caused by the cone suddenly coming loose or breaking.

Once the cone is loosened, turn the bar until it is flush against your garage door. Insert the second bar completely and raise it slightly before attempting to remove the first, and then continue turning the cone, repeating this step until the spring is fully unwound. You may need to tap the shaft with your hammer again during the process if there is a distortion. Note that a sudden slip of the cone could force the winding bar down causing injury if you do not maintain a constant grip.

Repeat this process for the second spring if it remains wound and intact.

Step 5: Loosening the drum and torsion assembly

Remove both bolts on the central cones. You may have to use a cable tie or vice grip to secure the spring bracket if it is slotted. Remove the single bushing from the center cones and leave it on the shaft by the center spring bracket.

Next, slide the torsion springs outward towards the cable drums. If the torsion shaft has been distorted, you may need to use a file to smooth out the damage. Loosen the set screws on the cable drum so that it turns freely and remove the cable. Slide the drum away from the bearing.

Try pulling the shaft through the bearing. If it will not slide, try tapping the headplate with a hammer to loosen the shaft.  Repeat for the other side.

Step 6: Inspecting the assembly

Check the anchoring bracket to ensure the lags are tight. If they’re loose, replace them with larger lags. You may also need to file the end of the shaft to allow the drum and spring to slide off. Using either lubriplate grease or motor oil, lube the bearings. Replace bearings labeled ADH. Straighten the bearing plate if it is leaning.

Step 7: Replacing the drums and cable

Working one side at a time, slide the drum and spring off of the shaft. Immediately dispose of the old spring in a trash receptacle. Slide the new spring onto the shaft all the way to the anchor bracket, making sure you have the proper side. The stationary cone is larger, and goes on the shaft first. You can check to ensure you have the proper spring on by either examining the color markings on the winding cone or verifying that the outer end of the spring’s wire is pointing upwards.

Now, slide the cable drum back onto the shaft and reinsert the latter into the bearing. Align the markings on the drum and shaft before hand-tightening the set screws. If you cannot turn the drum, you will know that the set screws are back in their original grooves. Tighten the screws another quarter to half turn. If you have a heavy wooden door, add an additional quarter turn. It is important to avoid over- or under-tightening the screws.

Use some needle-nose pliers to bend the end of the cable 90 degrees. Place the end completely into the slot on the drum, making sure that both the cable and cable stop are inserted straight and not at an angle. The rounded end of the cable tip should be facing outwards. Pull down on the drum to tighten the end of the cable.

Twist the shaft to further tighten the cable and attach a vice grip so that the grip is tight against the garage header. This will help prevent the cable from coming loose while aligning the other drum and winding the torsion springs. Finally, install the other drum and cable.

Step 8: Securing the stationary cones

Remove the cable tie or vice grip if you have a slotted bracket. Lube the shaft at the bushing and check for any damage. Slide both springs to the bracket and turn them so that the downward-pointing end of the spring wires are facing you. Add the bolts and hand tighten the nuts until both cones are flush with the bracket. Be careful not to over-tighten.

Step 9: Winding the springs

Mark the shaft where the winding cone ends. This mark should disappear inside the cone if you are winding properly. Insert your winding bar in the bottom hole of the cone and turn up 90 degrees, inserting the second bar. This is one quarter turn. Remove the upper bar and turn the lower one 90 degrees so that you may reinsert the first bar for the second quarter turn. Seven foot doors will require 30 quarter turns, and eight foot doors require 34.

Step 10: Stretching the springs

With your bar still fully inserted into the bottom hole, mark the shaft one quarter inch away from the winding cone. Once the shaft is properly marked, pull the winding bar up slightly and toward the middle of the door. Use the other bar to tap the inserted bar just below the cone. This will nudge the cone towards the shaft mark. If at any point the inserted bar begins to slip out of the hole, bring it against the garage door and insert the second bar into the hole above and lift slightly so that you may anchor the first bar properly in the hole, then remove the upper bar and continue nudging the winding cone.

Once the cone had reached the mark, hand tighten the set screws until they meet the shaft, being careful to keep the winding bar slightly away from the door and angled inward so that the cone doesn’t slip. Use your wrench to tighten the screws a further quarter to half turn. Carefully pull down on the bar to test the tightness of your set screws. The door should lift slightly if the screws are properly tightened. If not, or the bar begins to slip, add another quarter turn.

Step 11: Winding the other spring and testing the door

Remove the vice grip from the shaft and place it on the vertical track three inches above one of the rollers. Now wind and stretch the second spring. Insert your other bar into the cone and remove the bottom one. Now slowly pull down on the bar, lifting the door until it hits the vice grip. The door should lift the bar as it closes. If it doesn’t, raise the bar until the door is closed. If the door tries to lift the bar when holding the latter lightly, you have either wound the spring too tight or it is too strong for your door. If the door remains on the floor when you lift the bar, it is safe to remove it from the cone.

Step 12: Final checks

Gently open and close the door. Properly installed springs will allow the door to stay open, closed, or half-closed. Also, check the balance of your door and add motor oil to the springs to prevent rusting and reduce friction damage.

Additional Resources

Clopay Door is the manufacturer of the EZ-Set Torsion Spring System, available at Home Depot. They have published a supplemental guide for DIY replacement to assist homeowners using their system.

DDM Garage Doors provides a comprehensive guide on measuring torsion springs.

Engineer Richard J. Kinch, PhD, provides an in-depth guide on torsion springs, how they work, how to replace them, and how to spot various garage door-related scams.

If you are like many homeowners, you have probably wondered whether gutters are even necessary. After all, they are prone to clogging, attract nesting birds, can only handle a limited volume of water, and can eventually pull away from your roof or tilt. Some roofers even advise against them.

Rain gutters are the most controversial type of gutter. They are generally not required by law on a sloping roof, and many modern homes omit them, even in instances where they are beneficial. In order to decide for yourself whether rain gutters are necessary for your home, it is best to first weigh the facts.

Understanding Rain Gutters

The basic function of a gutter is to provide a channel for redirecting water. They are designed specifically to reduce erosion by guiding water to a drain or safe area. Gutters have a limited capacity and may overflow, although they still effectively remove a large volume of water. Rain gutters are affixed to your roof and are usually made of aluminum, copper, or plastic.

How They Work

The gutters along your roof catch rainwater as it washes down the side of the roof. This water is channeled through downspouts where it exits away from your home. By redirecting rainwater, the gutter reduces erosion of the ground against your home and may greatly decrease the risk of basement flooding and foundation damage. In some circumstances, the downspout empties into a tank or barrel for garden use during dry weather.

When Are They Necessary?

There are many times when a gutter system is necessary to protect your foundation. Some of these instances are:

1. Red clay – Ground rich in clay can be very difficult to work with, and once water makes its way to your foundation, the clay will serve as a pipeline to continue delivering water to the same spot. By using gutters with a drainpipe and ground-based gutter line, you can direct the water a safe distance from your home.
2. The surrounding landscape slopes upwards – When your home is at the bottom of a slope on at least one side, water will pool along the foundation both above and below ground. Using gutters on that side of the home will allow you to redirect the water towards a downward sloping side. A small gutter along the ground will assist with any runoff from the landscaping.
3. Little or no overhang – Roofs which fit close to the home allow water to pour from the roof to within a foot of the foundation, creating numerous problems. Frequent rains will cause trenches to form where the water forms. Rainwater remains close to the foundation once absorbed by the ground, causing extensive damage over time. You may also have to pass through a waterfall when entering or exiting your home during a storm.

When Are They Optional?

Sometimes, your property already performs the functions of rain gutters, rendering them obsolete. In such cases, having gutters adds maintenance costs with no benefits. Your home does not require gutters if:

• The landscaping around your home slopes downwards – especially when other factors are present.
• Your home is surrounded by concrete – be it sidewalks, driveway, or patio. In this case, the concrete already provides your foundation with a protective barrier from water.
• You live in an arid location – where there is little annual rainfall.
• Your roof has an extension or long overhang – which allows water to run off a safe distance from the foundation.

Why Do Some Roofers Advise Against Gutters?

When a roofer advises against installing a gutter, you should ask for specific reasons. Many roofers claim that having a gutter will ruin the facial boards of your roof. These boards are one by six inches and support the roof’s overhang. Improperly installed gutters may splash these boards during rainstorms, causing them to rot.

However, facial boards are relatively inexpensive to replace, unlike having to lift or replace foundation, and will not be damaged if the gutters are properly installed, making this another invalid argument.

As gutters provide a lot of extra work, some roofers will simply wish to avoid the labor. Legitimate reasons to omit gutters have been given above, and a good roofer will point these out when telling you not to replace or add gutters. In a few cases, the roofer may suggest extending the roof instead of adding a gutter. This is especially true of older homes where the roof seam for a first floor expansion has begun to leak.

Two Common Complaints and Solutions

There are a few common excuses homeowners give for wanting to remove their gutters. In both instances, the problem is solvable.

Gutter Clogs

This is perhaps the single most common complaint about gutters, especially on properties with several trees. The issue may be solved by adding gutter covers, which are inexpensive. Some covers have small diamond-shaped openings which allow tiny debris to enter but block leaves. What debris enters is easily flushed during rain, and leaves may simply be swept or blown over the gutter’s surface. Gutter covers also prevent birds from nesting within the gutter.

Ice Dams

It is a common misconception that gutters create ice dams during winter weather. Unfortunately, the presence of ice dams is evidence of a problem with your attic or crawl space. This is usually a matter of poor ventilation or insulation, and you are at risk of damage to your roof regardless of whether a gutter is installed or not. You should contact a professional to check your attic and remedy the underlying issue.

Additional Resources

CostHelper provides cost estimates for installing or replacing gutters. They also offer cost estimates for having your gutter professionally cleaned.

Unless your home has an attractive brick or stone exterior, you have probably considered adding or replacing siding at some point. There are many natural and artificial options available. One popular natural option is cedar, although there are several things to consider before investing in this material.

General Pros and Cons of Cedar Wood Siding

Being a natural wood product, cedar has many attractive features as well as drawbacks. The following are some of the major considerations involved in choosing cedar siding.

Pros

Cedar is highly attractive when stained and some varieties, such as white cedar, become increasingly aesthetically pleasing over time. It may be cut into numerous styles, such as beveled or traditional shingles or shakes. It maintains a timeless appeal that most other forms of siding attempt to emulate. This visual appeal is complimented by superior sound and thermal insulation.

Cedar is completely biodegradable, making it an excellent option for green homes. It may easily be painted and stained to acquire the look you desire. It is also suitable for use with almost any architectural style. Unlike most alternatives, cedar is easy to install, making it an excellent DIY project. Properly maintained, cedar siding may last as long as 75 years and may be pre-stained to add additional weatherproofing.

Cons

As is the case with other types of wood siding, cedar is flammable unless specially treated. It requires regular maintenance in the form of repainting or re-staining every three to five years. Despite a higher resistance, cedar is still more prone to rot, woodpeckers, and insect damage than artificial alternatives. It reacts to iron, making it important to avoid using iron nails when installing. Finally, the cost may be prohibitive if you are on a budget.

Comparing Cedar to Other Siding Options

While the ultimate decision of whether to use cedar siding is a personal one, it is important to understand how it fares against artificial alternatives. Man-made materials are often cheaper, yet not as bio-degradable and may have other drawbacks.

Other Wood Types

Certain chemicals in the fibers make cedar more resistant to termites and other insects than most other woods. Another advantage over other forms of wood is that cedar is one of the fastest growing trees, making it perhaps the fastest renewable material after bamboo. It does not easily warp or swell when exposed to moisture, although it is prone to discoloration and mildew.

Fiber Cement Siding

Fiber cement siding is a blend of sand, cement, and cellulose fibers pressed to create the look of traditional wood planks or shakes. These are often pre-colored, although they may be painted after installation. While the wood grain is more uniform than actual wood, the appearance is so close that it has been approved for use in historic restoration projects.

Unfortunately, fiber cement is only able to replicate painted woods and is unable to match stained or naturally weathered wood siding. This is especially true compared to white cedar, which achieves an attractive silvery patina if left untreated.

Cost comparisons place cedar at a much higher cost, both for materials and maintenance. Fiber cement runs an average of $3 to $4 per square foot, while cedar costs $5 to $7. It also requires little maintenance, saving hundreds of dollars over the lifetime cost of cedar. Unlike cedar, fiber cement is certified naturally fire-resistant and does not need any special treatment.

Vinyl Siding

Perhaps the most common choice in artificial siding, vinyl has its own drawbacks. For example, while at first vinyl seems cheaper, the end cost for installation is very similar to cedar. It is also prone to cracking and buckling over time, requiring replacement. It also fails to mimic wood adequately, making it simultaneously less attractive than other materials and very homogenized if used extensively in a neighborhood.

In cooler climates, vinyl may outlast cedar siding and requires only the occasional scrubbing to maintain. It is difficult to paint, although you may purchase it in a variety of colors. Another advantage is that individual panels may be replaced without the need for removing neighboring panels.

Aluminum

Similar to vinyl in appearance, aluminum siding is more cost-effective than cedar. Panels generally range in price from $1.50 to $2.50 and are available in a variety of colors. Unlike cedar and other natural siding options, aluminum is not prone to moisture or insect damage. It is fastened securely, making it a good choice in locations with high winds. The primary drawbacks to aluminum are that it dents easily and provides poor insulation against water and heat loss.

Additional Resources

Redbeacon offers a quick reference to the pros and cons of various siding options.