Home Advice

HERS testing is a process that evaluates the features and systems of a house to determine the building’s overall energy efficiency. Using the Home Energy Rating System (HERS), it tells you how the house compares to others like it and can guide you in deciding where to make improvements.

Why Your Home’s HERS Rating Matters

HERS testing can benefit you whether you’re planning to upgrade, sell, buy or build a house. In many locations, it’s a requirement for new constructions, remodeling, and renovations to ensure the building meets current energy efficiency standards. If you’re budgeting for upgrades, HERS testing helps you find your home’s biggest energy efficiency weak points. Taking care of these issues first will give you the best return on your investment.

If you’re preparing to sell, knowing your home’s HERS rating helps you calculate the selling price by factoring in the cost of future energy bills. Proof of the home’s energy efficiency is a good selling point, too. Investing in energy efficiency upgrades, such as air sealing and adding insulation, before testing can help you achieve a good rating that attracts buyers.

When you’re building a new home or buying an existing one, the HERS rating lets you know what to expect in terms of future energy bills and upgrade costs. A home with a good HERS score typically costs a little more upfront compared to average homes, but the investment will pay you back with lower energy bills and greater comfort.

HERS got its start in 2006, when California set ambitious goals to reduce greenhouse gasses. That year, the Residential Energy Services Network (RESNET) created the HERS Index to help homeowners and buyers reduce their energy use.

The process involves running tests on features such as the heating and cooling system, appliances, walls, and windows to evaluate the energy efficiency of each. Data from these tests are combined to calculate a rating from 0 to 150 on the HERS Index. A score of 100 is the standard home, known as the HERS Reference Home, which is based on the 2006 International Energy Conservation Code.

The lower the HERS rating, the more energy efficient the house. Every point of the rating represents a 1 percent difference in energy efficiency compared to the HERS Reference Home. A rating of 100 means the house is up to code. Most newly built homes achieve a rating of around 100.

For homes a few decades old that haven’t been upgraded much, 130 is a typical rating. That means the house is 30 percent less efficient than the HERS Reference Home. For a very old, inefficient house without upgrades, the rating can theoretically reach 200 or even higher, meaning it uses twice the energy as the Reference Home.

With a HERS rating of 85, which is at least 15 percent more efficient than the standard, a home meets the EPA’s requirements for the Energy Star label. Most new homes built with a little extra attention to energy efficiency meet this requirement.

At around 70, or 30 percent more efficient than the standard, you’ll find new or upgraded older houses that have a few energy efficiency improvements, such as extra attic insulation, a high-efficiency heating and cooling system, and storm windows.

Serious attention to green building can reduce the rating to 50 or lower. Homes with these ratings have features such as all modern, high-efficiency appliances, optimal insulation throughout the building, and high-efficiency windows and doors.

A net-zero energy home, which produces as much renewable energy as it consumes, gets a HERS score of 0. Achieving this score requires not only having energy efficient features, but also a means of producing renewable energy, such as solar panels.

What to Expect from HERS Testing

A HERS test must be performed by a RESNET Certified HERS Rater. All your heating, cooling, and ventilation systems should be fully operational when the testing starts. The process usually takes between two to four hours, during which the rater performs both visual inspections and diagnostic testing on the parts of your home that affect its energy efficiency.

• Heating and cooling system – The rater will note the system’s efficiency rating and ensure that it’s running optimally. This includes verifying the refrigerant charge and assessing the thermostat.
• Vents and ductwork – Done along with tests on the heating and cooling system, this involves measuring airflow velocity and testing for duct leakage.
• Water heating system
• Appliances
• Attics, foundation, and crawlspaces
• Ceilings and roof
• Exterior walls, windows, and doors
• Floors over unconditioned spaces, such as over the garage or cellar

Other tests include the blower door test to measure the building’s airtightness and check for leaks, as well as use of infrared (IR) scanning to spot areas of energy waste due to insufficient insulation.

The HERS rater compares test data from your home to a version of the HERS Reference Home that’s the same size and shape as yours and located in the same climate and general environment. From this, they’ll determine where your home scores on the HERS Index.

If your home scores above average, meaning it’s less efficient than most, consider making some repairs and upgrades to improve your comfort and save money. Use your test results to find your home’s biggest energy leaks and perform a cost-benefit analysis of possible improvements. Many raters even provide a list of upgrade recommendations with a cost-benefit analysis of each as part of the HERS testing process.

For new constructions, you’ll need a preliminary projected HERS rating. To calculate this, a certified HERS rater uses computer modeling to gather data based on how the house will perform if built according to plan. This data is used to calculate the projected HERS rating. During construction, the HERS rater checks in to ensure the house is being built as planned. Once the house is built, the HERS rater runs tests and collects data to confirm the projected rating.

By telling you how your home’s energy efficiency stacks up against modern standards, HERS testing helps you prioritize upgrades and remodeling work, and guides you in setting a selling price. Pay close attention to the results, and you’ll find ways to enjoy your home more while saving money.

Comprehensive home improvement and repair books help you save money, increase your safety and security, and gather inspiration, not to mention giving you the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. While thousands of home improvement books crowd the market, some stand out for their easy-to-follow guides, detailed illustrations, and user-friendly approach.

Renovation 5th Edition: Completely Revised and Updated

Michael Litchfield and Chip Harley
May 7, 2019

Author Mike Litchfield, founding editor of Fine Homebuilding magazine, interviewed hundreds of tradespeople, contractors, and architects to gather the insight and trade secrets found in this book. Each renovation project is detailed from start to finish, including some less common projects many books overlook, such as rebuilding a brick chimney and installing skylights. Whether you’re planning to renovate your older home or build a new house, you’ll find an extensive collection of ideas to inspire you.

Home Improvement for Dummies

Gene Hamilton and Katie Hamilton
December 19, 2016

From the publishers of the renowned Dummies series comes a home improvement book based on the belief that with the right guidance, anyone can do basic home repairs and upgrades. Walkthrough guides that are simple enough for novices, yet detailed enough for seasoned DIY enthusiasts have made this one of the most highly rated home improvement books out there.

You’ll learn how to take care of minor tasks, such as putting up a smoke detector and fixing squeaky stairs, as well as how to handle more advanced jobs, such as building shelves and installing insulation. Tiling, plumbing, electrical, outdoor repairs, and even decorating are also covered. Tool-buying and cost-calculation guides are included, too. On the downside, some readers find the illustrations somewhat lacking.

Beginner’s Guide to DIY & Home Repair

Jo Behari and Alison Winfield-Chislett
June 10, 2019

For those new to home maintenance, this book offers step-by-step guides on basic home repairs and maintenance jobs presented in a way that assumes very little prior knowledge. Find out how to clear a drain trap, seal drafty windows, quiet squeaky floorboards, and take care of numerous other small jobs. Don’t know what window sealants are? No problem, this book explains.

It also covers some more advanced home improvement jobs, such as painting walls, removing tile, and hanging shelves. Tips on choosing, using, and maintaining tools as well as choosing materials make the book even more beginner friendly.

Ultimate Guide to Home Repair and Improvement, Updated Edition

Creative Homeowner
August 31, 2016

While this book covers a variety of topics, it focuses primarily on home upgrades, rather than basic maintenance and repairs. Among the 325 project guides included, you’ll find instructions for building a deck and reinforcing your doors, but not for how to flush a hot water heater. That said, many repair tasks for plumbing, electrical, and heating and cooling systems are included. The sections on wiring and plumbing are particularly thorough.

Each guide is accompanied by detailed illustrations, including cutaway figures, along with lists of required tools and materials. If you’re planning on hiring professionals, you’ll appreciate the section on working with contractors, understanding contracts, and managing complex remodeling projects.

How Your House Works: A Visual Guide to Understanding and Maintaining Your Home

Charlie Wing
July 18, 2018

If you’re a new homeowner, this richly illustrated guide will help you build a good foundation in understanding how the systems in your home do their jobs. You’ll learn how electrical, plumbing, and heating and air conditioning systems work, as well as how to care for them and what can go wrong with them. Even your home’s framing and foundation are covered.

If you want to know why faucets leak, why furnaces start making funny noises or why circuit breakers trip, this is the reference for you. While the book’s focus is on preventing and diagnosing problems, not on repairs or upgrades, it does offer guidance on how to learn repair techniques.

The Complete Do-it-Yourself Manual Newly Updated

Family Handyman
October 7, 2014

This classic home improvement manual debuted in 1973 and remains a favorite for its comprehensive coverage of almost every home improvement job imaginable. It covers the essentials in plumbing, electrical, and heating and cooling, but also walks you through a number of exterior upgrades and landscaping jobs. There’s even a section on making your home healthier by reducing toxins.

Each section includes professional tips even experienced DIY-ers can learn from. It’s dense with information, but if you’re looking for a thorough education in home improvement, this manual is a good place to start.

Big Book of Home How-To by Better Homes & Gardens

Better Homes & Gardens
October 11, 2011

This book’s claim to fame is its exceptionally easy-to-follow layout based on thousands of highly detailed, exploded view illustrations for each step of the more than 200 projects covered. The layout is designed to walk beginners through each job while allowing more advanced home improvement buffs to look up specific, alternative techniques.

Marketed as one of the largest home improvement books available, it provides expert tips on buying tools, choosing and using the right tool for each job, selecting building materials, and improving worksite safety. It also lets you know when hiring a pro could save you money.

100 Things Every Homeowner Must Know: How to Save Money, Solve Problems and Improve Your Home

Family Handyman
April 7, 2015

More than just a basic home improvement and repair book, this guide arms you with the fundamental knowledge you need to make smart decisions on the care of your home. It offers guides to basic repairs for plumbing, appliances, flooring, and even furniture. Some more advanced maintenance problems, such as dealing with a damp basement, are also covered. Beyond this, you’ll get tips on protecting your home from burglary, removing fire hazards, and preparing for natural disasters.

Collins Complete DIY Manual

Albert Jackson and David Day
March 1, 2011

Billing itself as “the most comprehensive and authoritative DIY manual ever produced,” this guide has one of the highest reputations in its field. Designed to be equally useful to DIY novices and remodeling professionals alike, it covers a wide variety of topics, including decorating, tiling, wiring, and plumbing.

Despite this, some readers find that while the book provides solid background information on how things work, it’s lacking in step-by-step details on how to actually do each job. Given the book’s age, its guidelines on building permits might no longer be accurate for some locations.

Black & Decker The Book of Home How-To: The Complete Photo Guide to Home Repair & Improvement

Cool Springs Press
May 15, 2014

This book aims to be an encyclopedic reference for every home improvement and repair project a homeowner can dream  up. It covers a broad selection of tasks ranging from common maintenance jobs, such as how to clear a clogged toilet, to more involved renovation projects, such as putting in new flooring. With clear how-to instructions and detailed photos, it’s ideal for visual learners.

The wide range of projects included means the guides are broad but not particularly deep. While the book provides a thorough overview of how to perform each task covered, you might need to look elsewhere to learn how to choose your material or use a particular tool.

Whatever your skill level, keeping a thorough home improvement and repair book on hand can help you maintain and upgrade your home without spending a lot on outside help.

Proper surface preparation is essential for a successful paint job, and primer is the key to good surface preparation. Using the right type and amount of primer helps ensure a vivid, even color that lasts for years. Exactly how many coats of primer you need depends on what you’re painting, but most paint jobs call for one or two coats.  

Why the Right Amount of Primer Matters

Primer is made largely of solvent and resins along with some pigment. The resins seal porous surfaces to create a smoother surface that helps your paint cover more evenly, adhere better, and last longer. It also limits the amount of paint a surface absorbs, protecting the surface and reducing the amount of paint you need for an even finish. Skipping the primer or using too little allows the surface to soak up too much paint, leaving you with dull, blotchy results.

Too much primer causes a different set of problems. Too many layers or an excessively thick layer increases the risk of the primer cracking, crazing, or chipping. It also takes longer to dry, slowing down your redecorating work. In the worst case scenario, it can damage drywall by causing it to bubble and peel.

Applying primer with a standard roller should give you good coverage. If the primer is dripping off your roller as you apply it, you’re using too much. You can expect some of the old base color to show through the dry primer, but the primer will prevent this color from bleeding into your new paint.

It’s equally important to choose the right type of primer for the surface you’re painting and the type of paint you’ll be using. Get it wrong and you might still see stains, marks or prominent color bleeding or blotchiness in your new paint even after applying the recommended amount of primer.

If the surface you’re painting is heavily stained or has been stripped of wallpaper, leaving stain-causing glue behind, a stain-killing primer will give you the best results. Some surfaces, such as masonry and concrete, require a separate sealer to be applied before the primer.

When to Use One Coat

A single coat of primer is all you need if you’re painting over white or very light paint. A painted surface is already prepared to accept another layer of paint, and you won’t have to worry about the light base coat showing through the final coat.

If your old paint color is a medium-light tone, such as sky blue or mint green, and your new color is white or very light, start with a single layer of primer. If the old color shows through after this layer is dry, add a second coat of primer.

Using a tinted primer is another option. By neutralizing the underlying color, tinted primer can cut the amount of primer you need from two layers to one. Factory tinted primer isn’t always easy to find, but most paint stores can tint a primer for you. Adding pigment reduces the primer’s ability to do its job of creating a smooth surface for your new paint, though, so primer should never be tinted more than necessary.

Self-priming paint, as the name implies, doesn’t require a primer, but there’s no harm in using one coat.

When to Use Two Coats

Most unpainted surfaces require two coats of primer. On a surface that’s never been primed or painted, some areas are more porous than others. These areas will absorb paint at different rates, leaving you with a blotchy paint job. 

Using two coats of primer solves this problem because the surface will absorb most of the first coat, while the second coat finishes the work by filling in any remaining thin spots.

Wood – For bare wood that’s never been painted, apply two coats of an oil- or water-based primer. Oil-based primers generally perform better on bare wood, but water-based primers can work well on smooth softwood surfaces. For painted wood, use an oil-based primer.

Apply the first coat, then allow 12 to 24 hours of drying time for an oil-based primer or 1 to 2 hours for a water-based primer. When the first coat is dry, apply the second if necessary. A second coat is almost always necessary because wood is highly porous, and few primers contain enough resins to fill the wood’s pores and grain sufficiently with the first coat.

If you choose a water-based primer, lightly sanding the wood after the first coat is dry helps create a smoother surface, but let the primer dry for 24 hours before you do so.

Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) – After sealing the edges, apply two or three coats of an oil-based primer. Avoid water-based primers, which can roughen the fibers in a way that won’t sand out. Because MDF doesn’t absorb primer as quickly as wood, allow at least 24 hours of drying time between coats.  

Drywall – Start with one coat of drywall primer-sealer. You’ll get better coverage with a high-build drywall primer, which is thicker than the standard formula. After this layer dries, check for imperfections such as bumps and nicks as well as thin spots. You’ll most likely need a second coat to cover these, but if you’ve used a high-build primer, you might find the wall is smooth enough to paint after one coat.

Plaster – Because plaster is prone to lime stains that can bleed through your final coat of paint, you’ll need an oil-based stain-blocking primer for this surface. Apply one coat, let it dry for 12 to 24 hours, then apply the second coat.

Masonry – Start with one coat of water-based latex primer, let it dry for 1 to 2 hours, then apply another coat if stains still show through. Masonry affected by efflorescence or mildew usually needs two coats. If the wall has prominent stains, use a stain-killing primer.

Concrete – Apply a total of two coats of water-based primer. Acrylic primer is popular for concrete, but polyurethane and epoxy also work well.

Most primers are dry to the touch within a few hours, but for best results, wait at least eight hours before applying your final coat of paint over a water-based primer and 24 hours before painting over an oil-based primer.

With the right type of primer applied in the right amount, you’ll get true, even color that lasts five years or longer. If you’re unsure about how many coats of primer you need for the surface you’re painting, a paint store can advise you. Otherwise, start with one coat and check the surface after it dries. If it still looks rough, porous or heavily colored, apply another coat.

Few insects strike fear in the hearts of homeowners the way termites do and rightly so. Termites work quietly and can do thousands in damage before anyone notices they’re there. To protect your home, get familiar with the signs of an infestation and the treatment options. 

Common Signs of a Termite Infestation

Termite infestations often go unnoticed until the damage is severe, but these insects do give some early warning signs. By staying alert for these signs, you can spot an infestation while it’s still small.

Adventurous insects – The most common first signs of a termite infestation are the termites themselves or their dropped wings. Termites you see out and about in your rooms are usually winged “swarming” termites scouting for new territory where they can start another colony. Swarming termites are easy to mistake for flying ants, but the two insects have distinct differences. Termites have thick bodies, straight antennae, and four equally sized wings. Flying ants have narrow midsections, bent antennae, and front wings that are larger than their back wings.

Funny noises – If you suspect part of your home harbors termites, tap the wood there and listen closely. You might hear the soft clicking or rattling noises known as “head banging” termites use as an alarm signal. In addition, drywood termites sometimes create a rustling sound as they move.

Damaged wood – If part of your floor, wall or other solid wood surface sounds hollow when you knock on it, chances are it has termite damage.

Difficult doors and windows – When termites eat door and window frames, they cause damage and produce moisture that warp the wood and cause the doors and windows to stick when you use them.

Types of Termites: Know Your Enemy

Before you can formulate your plan of attack against a termite infestation, you need to know what type of termites you have. Several dozen species of termites live in the United States and U.S. territories, but just three are responsible for the majority of infestations. These bugs are more common in the south, but they can show up in any state besides Alaska.

Subterranean Termites

The most common and most destructive of termite species, these insects build distinctive mud tubes, or “carton” nests, underground. If you have an infestation of subterranean termites, the colony is most likely located under your foundation. While you might find some of their mud tubes running along the outside of your foundation, they’re just as likely to be in less obvious places, such as behind the siding or under the floor.

Winged swarming termites coming out of the floors and interior walls or baseboards are often the first signs of a subterranean termite infestation. You might also notice dark patches or narrow blisters on your wood flooring or walls. Because subterranean termites eat only the soft cellulose between the wood grain, the galleries they create as they eat run straight, following the wood grain.

Drywood Termites

These termites are less dependent on moisture, so they live above ground and build their nests inside the wood structures they eat. You’ll typically find the colony living inside a floor, wall, or the house framing. If you’re lucky, the colony will be limited to a piece of furniture you can throw out before the infestation spreads.

While you might spot swarming drywood termites, the first signs you’re likely to see are the numerous tiny bore holes, or “kickout” holes, they chew into the infested wood. Beside these holes, you might notice tiny piles of debris made from the termites’ waste. Drywood termites eat across the wood grain, so their galleries are made of irregularly shaped chambers.

Dampwood Termites

The moisture preferences of these termites make them less likely to infest a house compared to the other common species. While they don’t need soil contact like subterranean termites, they need more moisture than drywood termites. They favor damp wood of the type found in rotting logs and woodpiles or near water sources, such as leaky pipes. When they do enter a house, they’re usually found in the basement or attic.

As the physically largest termite species in the U.S., they can do even more damage than subterranean termites if the colony grows big enough. That situation is rare, though. Rather than forming one large colony, dampwood termites live in multiple small groups.

They typically eat across the wood grain and create irregular, chambered galleries. In especially damp conditions, tiny piles of moist waste pellets build up in or near the galleries.

Less Common Species

Formosan termites and conehead termites also occur in the U.S. Formosan termites are similar to subterranean termites in appearance and behavior, but are even more voracious eaters. Conehead termites, named for their dark, cone-shaped heads, build mud tubes, but frequently leave them to seek new food sources.

If you have doubts about the species infesting your home, ask a pest control professional.

Getting Rid of a Termite Infestation

The most effective way to get rid of termites depends on the termite species. Generally, killing a subterranean termite colony requires treating the soil in which it’s located. For drywood and dampwood termites, which live inside wood, you’ll need to treat the wood directly. These two methods aren’t mutually exclusive, however, so an exterminator might recommend both.

If you realize a piece of furniture, firewood, or another wood item you brought in is carrying drywood termites, it might be enough just to remove that item from the house. Then either treat it, destroy it, or store it least 20 feet from the house. Drywood termites spread fast, though, so stay alert for signs they’re still in your home.

If your house is infested, you might be able to treat the infestation yourself as long as it’s small. For damage covering more than around 10 sq. ft., you’re better off calling an exterminator. A professional exterminator has the knowledge needed to correctly identify the termite species, choose the most effective treatment, and locate the colony in order to eradicate it completely.

Termite Control Methods

Soil Treatment

To prepare for treatment application, a trench of 6 in. deep must be dug all the way around the foundation. The trench is then filled with liquid termiticide and backfilled with soil. Concrete areas must be drilled into once per foot, and termiticide poured into each hole. This kills any termites returning to the colony and prevents future re-infestations.

For interior treatment, the floor covering must be pulled back to allow access to the concrete foundation slab. This slab will also be drilled, and a termiticide applied in the holes. If you’re willing to do the digging and drilling, you might be able to treat a small infestation yourself with a borate-based product such as Tim-bor or Bora-care.

Wood Treatment

Termiticide sprays and foams are formulated to be used above ground on termite-infested wood. For most of these products, holes must be drilled into the infested wood, and the treatment solution injected into these holes. The major producers of borate-based DIY soil treatments also make products for direct wood treatment.

Bait Systems

This method involves setting out bait stations that contain a poisoned termite food source. In theory, the termites should pick up this food and carry it back to the colony, gradually killing off the whole colony. In reality, baiting is the least effective method of termite control. It’s also a slow method that’s vulnerable to changes in the weather. Baiting is reserved for locations where standard treatments are impractical, such as near concrete surfaces that would be difficult to drill into. If you want to use this method, get guidance from a professional first.

Fumigation

Used for extensive infestations of drywood termites, fumigation involves covering the whole house with a tent, then pumping in a gas fumigant to kill the termites. After treatment, the house is uncovered and aired out. The air is then tested for safety before you can return. You’ll need a licensed fumigator for the job. While some small jobs can be done in less than a day, others take a full week. For this time, you’ll need to find somewhere else for your family and pets to stay as well as remove all food, medications, and plants and store them elsewhere.

Heat (Thermal) Treatment

Also called heat fumigation, this method is reserved for large colonies of drywood termites. It involves heating the entire house to temperatures of at least 120 degrees for at least 35 minutes to kill the termites living inside the wood in your house. Before the treatment, you might need to remove certain items from your house and turn of certain equipment. Your pest control professionals will then bring in specially designed heaters that blow hot air through your house. The process takes less than a day. It can easily fail if done incorrectly, so if you go this route, choose a company with proven experience in termite heat treatment.

Some termite species can do extensive damage in a matter of months, so if you spot signs of termite activity, contact a pest control professional for guidance as soon as possible. Even if you ultimately decide to treat the infestation yourself, tips from a pro can make the difference between success and ongoing destruction.

Lead gives paint greater durability and a more attractive finish, so this metal was once a common component in paints. As manufacturers eventually realized, though, lead-based paint poses a serious health hazard, particularly to children.

If your home has lead paint, taking steps to remove or encapsulate it as soon as possible will protect your family’s health. Which option is better for you depends on the condition of the paint, where it’s located, and your budget.

Beautiful on Your Wall, Hard on Your Health

With fast drying times and a fresh, glossy finish that resists scratches and moisture, lead-based paint once seemed like a no-fail option. These paints were so popular, in fact, that they were used in almost 75 percent of homes built before 1978 and an even higher percentage of pre-1945 homes.

Over time, though, lead paint revealed its powerfully damaging effects. If inhaled or ingested, lead from paint can cause a wide range of health issues in adults, including digestive problems, mood disturbances, and high blood pressure.

In addition, children younger than six are at risk of learning disabilities, growth delays, and behavioral problems. Growing children absorb more lead than adults, their nervous systems are more sensitive, and they’re more likely to put their fingers in their mouths or even eat lead paint for its sweet taste.

A pregnant woman can also pass lead to her unborn baby, leading to brain and nervous system damage.

In 1978, the federal government banned household use of lead paint, but it’s still present in millions of homes.

Know Your Options for Staying Safe

Lead paint in good condition isn’t immediately dangerous. It’s when the paint starts to chip, peel or otherwise deteriorate that the problems start. Tiny flakes accumulate on your floors, furniture, and other surfaces, eventually finding their way into your food and drink.

That doesn’t mean you can safely ignore undamaged lead paint, though. If you have children or you’re planning to, for their safety, either encapsulate or remove the paint even if it’s in perfect condition.

If you ever rent the property out, by federal law, you’re obligated to at least encapsulate any lead paint and disclose its presence to your tenants. You’ll then need to inspect the paint every year and whenever a new tenant moves in.

Encapsulation and removal are the two basic options for dealing with the lead paint.

Encapsulation – This method involves sealing off the lead paint with a specially formulated encapsulation paint or primer, or with a structure such as a wall.

It’s usually the simpler, cheaper way to go, and it’s often safer because there’s no risk of spreading lead dust while you work. Even so, it’s not an option for paint that’s damaged in any way or for surfaces subject to friction, such as floors and doors.

Keep in mind that different surfaces require different encapsulation methods. You’ll also need to maintain the surface regularly to prevent it from deteriorating and spreading lead.

Removal – This usually means scraping or sanding the paint from the surface and disposing of it in a safe way so that no lead paint remains.

While removal eliminates the risk completely and permanently, it’s also an involved and potentially expensive process that carries the risk of contaminating the house with lead dust. If done incorrectly, it will make your problem worse.

For damaged paint, though, it’s the only safe option. If the painted surface is something that’s easy to remove, such as a door or a window frame, you’re better off replacing it with a new one.

Encapsulation: Quick and Easy Protection

The easiest approach to encapsulation is to apply a lead encapsulation paint or primer over the lead paint. This paint bonds to the lead paint and forms a protective barrier. Some also include a bitter-tasting substance to discourage children from chewing the paint.

Once the encapsulation layer is dry, you can apply any topcoat paint you want over it. Before you buy, makes sure the encapsulation paint you want is right for the material you plan to seal.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely to ensure an effective barrier. In most cases, it’s a simple matter of cleaning the surface and painting it.

Wipe down the surface with a trisodium phosphate (TSP) cleaner or an alternative. Wear thick gloves, goggles, and a long-sleeved shirt when working with TSP. Then apply the encapsulation paint at the recommended thickness. It might take two or three coats. Measure carefully because a layer that’s too thin won’t be effective.

The next option for encapsulation is to cover the painted surface with other material. You can cover a wall with drywall or wood paneling or a floor with tile.

Finish all the joints and seams carefully to create a dust-tight seal. Regularly inspect the material because if it gets damaged, the risk of lead exposure returns.

Removal: Hard Work for Permanent Protection

All removal methods produce some lead dust, so if possible, call a certified lead remediation professional to handle the job. A professional is also more likely to have a power sander with a HEPA-filter vacuum attachment or a heat gun they’re skilled in using to get the work done quickly and safely.

Your local regulations might even require professional removal.

If you do it yourself, wet scraping is the simplest approach. This involves misting the painted surface with water to hold down the dust, then scraping the paint off with a hand scraper. Finish up by using a sanding sponge to remove the remaining paint residue. As you work, wipe up any mess frequently to control dust.

If the whole exterior of your house is painted in lead paint, you might not be able to remove it completely by scraping. In this case, you can get an extra layer of protection by applying lead encapsulation paint after you scrape off what you can.

Never dry scrape, dry sand, use a power sander without a HEPA-filter vacuum or use any high-temperature tool to remove lead paint. These methods all pose a dangerously high risk of lead exposure.

Staying Safe During a Removal Job

Children, pregnant women, and pets should stay clear of the work area until it’s been cleaned. If the job will take more than a day and you won’t be able to clean up every day, spend the night somewhere else until the whole project is done.

Work with one room at a time. Remove everything from the room, including curtains and rugs. Anything left in the room can become dangerously contaminated, and ordinary cleaning can’t always remove lead dust.

Start sealing off the room by taping a piece of 6-mil poly plastic sheeting around the entire perimeter of the door. Cut a slit for entry. Tape another plastic sheet to the top of the door to stop any escaping dust.

Then, if you’re removing paint from a small area in the room, such as a window frame, it’s enough to cover the floor with plastic sheeting 5 ft. out from your work area. Then tape plastic sheeting securely over your HVAC air ducts and turn off your HVAC system to prevent any airflow that can spread dust.

If you’re cleaning a wall, though, spread plastic sheeting over the whole floor and seal the entire perimeter by taping it to the baseboards or the wall above them.

For an exterior paint removal job, lay a 6-mil poly plastic sheet at least 5 ft. out from your work area. Either roll up the edges or use cardboard to create a raised barrier that keeps the debris contained.

Wear a disposable coverall designed for lead abatement work, along with goggles, heavy rubber gloves, and disposable coverings for your shoes and hair. You’ll also need a half facepiece respirator with P100 HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filters.

To avoid getting lead in your mouth, don’t eat, drink or smoke while you work and wash your hands and face thoroughly before consuming anything on breaks.  

When you’re done for the day, but you’ll be continuing the next day, you still need to clean your work area thoroughly. It might sound like a hassle, but it’s critical to preventing the spread of lead dust around your house. It’s even more important if you’re going to be around children or a pregnant woman.

Mist the debris with water and collect it in heavy plastic bags. Place all your disposable protective clothing in the bag and close the bag securely. In most areas, you can throw small bags of lead paint debris out with your regular trash, but check your local regulations first.

After you leave the room, use a HEPA-filtered vacuum cleaner to remove lingering dust from your clothes. Put your work clothes aside to be washed separately and take a shower.

Once the whole paint-removal job is done, clean all surfaces including the walls, window sills, cabinetry, and ceiling, with a HEPA-filtered vacuum. Then mop or wipe down these surfaces with water. Finish up by going over every surface with the HEPA-filtered vacuum a final time.

If your home is one of the many with lead paint, doing something about it now will protect your family’s health in the future. If the paint is deteriorating even slightly, removal is the best option. Have the job done professionally or take the right precautions before you do it yourself, and you can get rid of the problem permanently.

For paint that’s still in good condition, though, encapsulation is often the more practical route. Not sure which approach to take? Contact a certified lead abatement contractor for guidance.

A cozy, inviting home gives you a relaxing place to unwind after a long day, a comfortable spot for small family gatherings, and a welcoming environment for entertaining friends. Creating that cozy atmosphere takes more than some throw pillows and candles, though. The right lighting, furniture layout, and decor choices also play a role in turning a house into a snug and comfy home.

Layer Your Lighting

Lighting has a major influence on the overall ambiance of a room. By layering your lighting, you’ll get enough light for day-to-day tasks but still have the option of turning the lights down to a soft, gentle glow for cozier moments.

In addition to general ambient lighting, provide task lighting, such as bright lamps for reading and undercabinet lighting in the kitchen. Using table lamps for task lighting helps bring the light down to a human level.

Then add accent lighting to highlight features such as cabinets, stairways, and artwork. This lighting gives your rooms depth and a finishing touch that shows attention to detail.

To lend the room a calming warmth, choose lights with a dimmer switch and use LED bulbs with a “warm white” (around 3,000K) color temperature.

Work with a Muted Color Palette

For a peaceful, relaxing living space, work from a limited palette of natural colors and keep prints to a minimum. Tonal palettes, which use different shades of the same color, work especially well. For a more varied palette, it helps to start with a warm color or a color with warm undertones. Beyond that, anything from pastels to rich jewel tones can set a cozy mood.

Light colors expand a small space, while dark colors create a sense of intimacy in a larger space. The rich, earthy shades of brown, green, and red used in traditional British hunting lodges show just how effectively dark colors can warm up a room.

Invest in Natural Materials

Hard plastic and polyester might be practical, but they don’t please the senses quite the way natural materials do. Cotton, wool, wood, and even stone invite touch, lending your home an aura of comfort. Their connection to nature and traditional crafts breathes life into a space. Because they’re associated with higher quality furniture and decor, they evoke an air of timeless, relaxed luxury.

Get Creative with Your Walls

Instead of playing it safe with solid-colored walls, look at your walls as an opportunity to express your personality. A single accent wall with unusual wallpaper can change the whole mood of a room. Soft watercolors contribute a lot to a cozy atmosphere, but a bold print in low-key colors can also do the job.

Wallpaper with a photo-realistic image of a forest, lakeside or ocean beach lets you create a private escape into nature right in your own home. A mural is another option.

If you’re not feeling quite that daring, the endless variety of removable wall decals out there will let you add a homey charm to your walls without the need for a long-term commitment.

Seek Out Antiques and Handicrafts

Much of what makes a home cozy is its sense of character and history. Antique, vintage, and handcrafted items add to your home’s character by giving the space a human touch and bringing their unique background stories into your daily life.

Even if you’re aiming for a modern look, a single time-worn or handcrafted rocking chair, coffee table, framed mirror or other distinctive item will add a vital touch of personality. You’ll get a space that looks like a cherished home, and not a retail display room. The attention to detail that goes into handcrafted items also adds a more personal feel.

Choose Comfy Furniture

In a snug home, the furniture should be made to enjoy. An oversized sectional sofa, a plush chaise lounge, a cushy easy chair or an overstuffed ottoman all go toward making a home more welcoming. Your furniture should be both soft enough and large enough to invite you to curl up and relax.

Choose low-maintenance material so you’re not constantly worried about dirt and spills. Leather is easy to clean and offers all the benefits of a natural material, but not everyone finds it comfortable.

If you prefer fabric, keep in mind that synthetics are generally easier to clean than natural fibers. You’ll need to balance aesthetics with practicality here. In terms of appearance, avoid furniture sets. The matchy-matchy look feels impersonal.

Arrange Your Furniture for Flow

Cramped spaces aren’t cozy, they’re just uncomfortable. For a space to feel inviting, it should be easy to move around in. Arrange your living room furniture so that each seat is easy to reach without the need to edge in sideways or move other furniture. Leave 30 to 36 inches between furniture you need to walk around.

Arranging seating in the tried and true conversation circle style is a good bet for encouraging friendly chats. Forming a semi-circle around a focal point, such as the entertainment center, fireplace or a picture window, works well, too. For optimal comfort, make sure every seat has a nearby surface to place a drink on and a light to read by.

Clear Out the Clutter

Cozy homes are light and airy, letting you move with ease and freeing you from visual distractions. If you’re struggling with clutter, investing in good storage will make your home a whole lot more comfortable. Storage bins made of felt, cotton, sea grass or wood keep odds and ends corralled while adding an extra touch of coziness. Wood trays on the coffee table and kitchen table keep these surfaces looking neat and appealing.

If your bedroom is short on closet space, bring in an open wardrobe. If your entryway is a mess, put together an entryway station using wall hooks, trays, and cubbies to make a welcoming first impression on your visitors.

Pile on Touchable Textiles

Textiles add softness and warmth, invite touch, and make a space you can snuggle up to. Throw pillows, throw blankets, area rugs, tablecloths, chair pads, wall hangings, and cloth storage bins are all options. For an extra-cozy floor, give the layered carpet trend a try by rolling out a smaller area rug on top of a large one.

Too add both visual and tactile interest, aim for a variety of textures. Choose a shaggy rug to contrast with a wood floor or nubby pillows and a chunky knit throw to top off a sleek leather sofa. If your sofa is richly textured, contrast it with smooth linen or even suede throw pillows.

Soften Straight Lines

Softly flowing organic forms have a natural, relaxed look that fosters a soothing atmosphere. If the straight lines and sharp angles of your furniture and architecture make your space look more like a corporate office than a cozy home, softening them up will give you more comfortable surroundings.

Round pillows, casually draped throws, irregularly shaped throw rugs, vases with gentle curves, and round mirrors all help balance out harsh lines.

Bring in the Green

Potted plants give rooms a homey, down-to-earth touch like no other decor can. Trailing vines and bushy plants, with their carefree growth habits, are especially good choices, as are plants with soft or lacy leaves.

For plants with personality, try the cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), string-of-pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) and asparagus fern (Plumosus nanus). Put your plants in crochet baskets, macrame hangers or other textile holders for even more coziness.

Warm Up by the Fire

A crackling fire is the ultimate in coziness, but if a wood-burning fireplace isn’t an option, consider a modern alternative for that soul-soothing warmth and glow.

A gas fireplace will supply plenty of heat, but the need to install ventilation makes this option rather pricey. An electric fireplace is a more convenient way to get the light and warmth of a fire, although you won’t have real flames. For real flames without complex installation requirements, consider a gel fuel fireplace.

Creating a cozier home is less about piling on the pillows, than about designing a stress-free space where you can stretch out and breathe easy. Start by getting your lighting and color palette right, then choose furniture that invites you to lounge for a while.

Once you’ve got comfort handled, give your home a personal touch with natural materials, vintage pieces, and other items that tell a story. Then finish the look with some quirky potted plants.