Flooring

The same qualities that make epoxy flooring popular for mechanic shops and retail stores also make it practical for busy homes. Affordable and stain-resistant, it performs reliably in the garage, basement, kitchen, and bathroom. Installing it presents a few challenges, though, so make sure you’re prepared before you settle on this material.

Epoxy flooring isn’t a floor by itself, but a covering for a concrete floor. The concrete floor is prepped, then the epoxy material is mixed, poured onto the concrete floor, and left to harden into a plastic for at least one night.

After this, a second and possibly more layers are added and left to fully harden (cure) for several days to several weeks. Getting the application just right is tricky, but when done well, the result is a smooth, durable, low-maintenance surface.

Pros: Economical and Long Lasting

Low cost

The low cost of epoxy flooring is one of the main reasons it’s so popular. All you need to install it is a concrete floor. There’s no underlayment or adhesive to worry about. In fact, the only cheaper option is concrete polishing. Epoxy might not last as long as solid wood or tile, but it’s still less expensive, even considering replacement costs.

The exact price depends in part on the type of epoxy used. Water-based epoxy is cheaper, but generally less durable than solids-based and solvent-based epoxy. Each type has its pros and cons beyond price, though. Adding more layers also increases the price.

Durable

Epoxy floors can stand up to a lot of abuse. Heat and most chemical spills are unlikely to harm them. When applied correctly, they rarely crack or peel. Standing water can damage these floors, but they can be waterproofed to reduce the risk. Scratching is a possibility, but a protective urethane coat helps prevent this.

Their durability makes them popular in demanding environments such as auto shops, medical facilities, and shopping centers. Because home installations are under less stress, they have even longer lifespans than commercial ones. The type of epoxy used also affects the floor’s lifespan, with solvent-based epoxy lasting longer than solids-based and water-based epoxy. Overall, an epoxy floor in a basement or kitchen can last 20 years or longer.

Customizable

There’s only so much you can do with tiles and parquet, but with epoxy flooring, your options are nearly limitless. If you prefer traditional styles, choose from almost any solid color or go for a flake or metallic epoxy flooring that mimics stone. For something more expressive, try a geometric pattern or abstract design. If you want a floor that’s truly striking, a 3D image of ocean waves, a lake bottom, or a cliff edge will make an impression on anyone who walks in.

Increasingly popular in homes, 3D floors are created by applying a mural over the epoxy floor, then adding several more layers of clear epoxy to create the perception of depth. By increasing the visual sense of space, they can make a small room feel bigger.

Easy to Maintain

Weekly dust mopping or vacuuming is all an epoxy floor needs to stay clean and in good condition. Wet mopping gets rid of stuck-on debris, but first, dust mop or vacuum to remove any grit that could scratch the floor. Then use a hard foam (sponge) or microfiber mop and a solution of 4 to 6 Tbs of ammonia in 1 gallon hot water.

Avoid acidic cleaners, including vinegar, citrus-based products, and many detergents, because these can etch the floor. Steer clear of soap and other oil-based cleaners, which leave a slippery residue.

Cons: Tricky to Install and Potentially Slippery

A Challenge to Install

The process of installing an epoxy floor is theoretically simple, but requires careful planning. While you can install a solid-color epoxy floor yourself, installing a floor with a decorative pattern is best left up to a professional. Unfortunately, professionals skilled in installing these floors, especially 3D versions, aren’t easy to find.

To start the job, you or your contractor will need to patch any cracks in the concrete floor, then once the repair work is dry, thoroughly clean the floor to remove any trace of oils or solvents. The epoxy can be applied only when humidity levels are low enough to allow it to adhere properly.

Too much moisture in the floor can cause the epoxy to peel later. Achieving that low humidity can be difficult in basements and during wetter parts of the year. Epoxy also requires warm conditions to cure properly. Cold can slow or even stop the process, although it will continue normally when the temperature rises.

Depending on the product you choose, the wet epoxy mixture can produce a strong odor of ammonia. This is less of an issue with low-VOC and no-odor epoxy products, but even these still release some chemical fumes. To protect your health when working with wet epoxy, wear an N95 or equivalent mask with an organic vapor cartridge.

Any odor disappears once the epoxy is fully cured, which usually takes around three days, but can take up to four weeks. Ideally, the floor should be cured slowly for optimal durability.

Can Become Slippery

When dry and clean, epoxy isn’t any more slippery than a polished wood floor. It is, however, more likely to become dangerously slippery if you happen to spill water or any oily substance or clean it with a soap-based product.

If you plan to use epoxy in the kitchen or garage, where spills are likely, consider using a non-slip additive such as ground polymer grit, aluminum oxide grit, or silica sand. These improve traction and make the floor safer when wet, yet still feel soft on your feet. Naturally, these additives increase the cost of the floor. Putting down non-slip mats in high-traffic areas is another option.

Prone to Discoloration

Epoxy is at greater risk for color problems than most common flooring materials. Incorrectly mixing the resin and hardening chemical before application can leave you with not quite the right color, and it’s especially likely if you do the job yourself. Using two epoxy kits from different production batches can cause unattractive variations in the floor.

Over time, with exposure to sunlight and humidity, the hardeners in a finished floor can take on a yellowish cast. The color change doesn’t affect the floor’s usability, but adding a UV-stable topcoat keeps it looking good for longer in sunny or humid parts of the house.

Epoxy flooring is often overlooked for homes, but it’s a smart choice if you’re in the market for something affordable, durable, and modern and don’t mind hiring a professional installer. Beyond its practical benefits, it also gives you free rein to add some creative flair to your bedroom, home office, game room, or anywhere else you want a personal touch.

Transforming wood shipping pallets into pallet flooring cuts your renovation costs, reduces landfill waste, and gives your room an extra touch of personality. These pallets are often dumped into landfills after just a few uses, but by collecting them, you can get free material to build a one-of-a-kind floor. First, though, you’ll need to know what kind of pallets are suitable for flooring, where to find them, and how to prepare and install.

The Pros and Cons of a Pallet Floor

A pallet floor can cost as little as $200 to $300. What you will spend, however, is time. Depending on the type of pallets you want, collecting your materials could take one weekend or several months. Then you’ll need to install them.

It’s a great project if you’re a dedicated DIY-er and genuinely enjoy home improvement work. If the look of a pallet floor is all you want, you might be better off buying second-hand pallets, then hiring workers to disassemble and install them. If you want to save money, but you don’t have a lot of time, you can collect free pallets, then let a professional install them.

Shipping pallet floors have a rustic, mix-and-match look that’s rich in character. Pallets are typically made from low-grade wood with coarse grain, color streaks, and knotholes. Around half the pallets in the U.S.. are made from yellow pine and oak, but many more species are used nationally and internationally. To confuse matters, a single pallet can be made from several species of wood.  

Chances are, you’ll be using both darker and lighter planks, possibly of different wood species, to build your floor. This creates a unique, variegated look many see as part of the charm of these floors. The variegation also makes pallet flooring easy to repair. If one plank is damaged, just replace it with any other and the new plank will blend right in. If you prefer uniformity or you have your heart set on a less common wood species, however, it could take months to find enough pallets.

Low-grade wood might look rough, but wood pallet floors aren’t any more prone to deterioration than other wood floors. Their longevity depends on foot traffic, maintenance, and the species of wood.

Choosing the Right Type of Pallets

Not just any pallet is suitable for flooring. Some present a health hazard or are just too damaged. Avoid pallets with mysterious stains. They might be perfectly safe, but it’s not worth the risk. Likewise, avoid pallets used to transport packages of raw meat. These could carry traces of bacteria such as E. Coli, which could transfer to your hands. Pallets used to carry industrial chemicals might have chemical spills that could either irritate your hands or weaken the wood. 

Fungus is another common problem, so avoid pallets that have been stored in damp conditions. Likewise, steer clear of pallets with insect damage, excess nails, or splitting wood.

Pallets without identifying stamps are “national pallets” manufactured and used only within one country. These are usually free from chemicals and, provided they’re otherwise clean, they’re safe to use as flooring.  

Pallets used for international shipments should carry the International Standards For Phytosanitary Measures (IPPC) stamp. This is a rectangular stamp with a wheat symbol on the left side and information about the pallet’s history on the right side. It includes a code for the pallet’s country of origin, such as CA for Canada, and codes for processing methods. The most common codes are [DB] for debarked, [KD] for kiln dried, and [HT] for heat treated. You might also see [MB] for methyl bromide treated. Never use pallets treated with methyl bromide, which is highly toxic.

Some national pallets also carry stamps with these codes. When you can, choose undyed, heat-treated national pallets stored in dry conditions and not used to transport food or chemicals.

Finding Quality Material

One standard 48- by 40-in. shipping pallet provides enough wood to cover between 1.5 to 2.5 sq. ft. of floor space, depending on the length of planks you can get out of it.

You’ll need a lot of pallets for the average room, but if you don’t mind searching, you can get them for free. Start by asking at businesses that regularly receive large shipments of packaged products. Grocery stores, department stores, garden centers, furniture stores, small retail stores, and even schools might have pallets free for the asking. New businesses are also good sources because they’re stocking up on inventory. Landfill sites often have piles of pallets, but these pallets are more likely to be damaged.

No time to hunt down clean, undamaged pallets? Some hardware stores sell used pallets you can be sure are safe and sanitary. You’ll spend more money, but save time.  

Turning Pallets into Flooring Planks

Once you find your pallets, you’ll need to clean and disassemble them. Inspect each pallet again for stains, damage, or debris. Check for discoloration that could indicate a hazardous spill and insect holes that could still be harboring insects. Look for stray nails or other metal and remove them before you start work.

Hose down the pallets to remove debris. Then remove the individual planks by prying out the nails with a nail puller (cat’s paw) or a crowbar. For stubborn nails, try a nail punch. If all else fails, cut the plank out with a circular saw.

Next, sand the planks to make both sides smooth and even enough to use as flooring. Uneven planks will make your floor uneven. Lay each pallet between two sawhorses and sand them with an electric power sander or sandpaper, progressing from coarse to fine grit.

Finally, clean the planks. Mix 1 part dish soap with 10 parts water and use the mixture to scrub both sides of the planks thoroughly. Rinse the planks, then scrub and rinse them again. Mix 1 part bleach with 3 parts water and spray the mixture over both sides of the planks. Rinse and leave the planks in the sun or a dry indoor space to dry.

Installing Your Pallet Floor

Take some time to look through flooring designs and find one you love. While the straight-set pattern is the most common, you might prefer offset (brick or running bond), herringbone, chevron, basketweave or a variation on one of these. Creating your own custom pattern is also an option. Because you’ll be working with a variety of shades, plan out approximately where you want each plank, so you don’t end up with unattractive clusters of dark or light planks.

Before you lay your new floor, completely remove the old one. Thoroughly clean up any debris and make sure the surface is level. Install flooring underlayment paper according to the product’s instruction. Use a stud finder to find the floor joists, then mark their locations. Your floor planks should lay perpendicular to the joists. This way, you can easily nail the planks to the joints to create a secure hold. Lay the planks and nail them in place one at a time.

When the planks are nailed down, clean up any lingering debris. If you plan to stain the floor, first clean it with mineral spirits, then apply your chosen stain according to the product’s instructions. Follow up by applying a protective finish.

Because floor stain is tricky to get right, you might want to leave this part up to a professional. If you’re going for a truly rustic look, you can leave the floor unfinished. Just know that your floor will pick up stains and wear faster this way.

Fitting a room with pallet flooring takes a greater time investment than using commercial flooring material, but it will reward you with a distinctive and durable floor at a fraction of the cost. Sourcing usable pallets is the most time-consuming part of the job. Make sure you know what to look for before you start hunting.

From the 1920s to the 1950s, magnesite incorporated elegance and serviceability as a low-cost pourable flooring material, utilized everywhere from Depression-era art deco homes to mass-produced apartment projects to the decking of World War Two battleships. The iconic American architect Frank Lloyd Wright made extensive use of magnesite in residential designs and it was the standout flooring for many houses built with a Spanish or Mediterranean theme.

In the city of Los Angeles alone, it’s estimated that at least 4 million square feet of vintage magnesite flooring still survives in existing houses and apartment buildings, a lot of it now sadly covered up by carpet or vinyl tile.

Technically called diato magnesium oxychlorite (and also sometimes referred to as “diato flooring”) magnesite is a blend of magnesium chloride and a finely ground organic filler such as sawdust, mixed with water. Colorant is added to produce a wide range of hues. The mixture pours like wet cement and is then spread out by trowels, typically on top of a wood floor covered with wire mesh or directly onto a concrete slab. Most magnesite flooring of the past was anywhere from 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch thick.

Think of magnesite as a sort of plaster for the floor. Because it’s a wet mix that is workable after pouring, it takes on some of the aesthetic potential of plaster. Depending on the coloration added, magnesite can mimic many other flooring materials. While still wet, magnesite can be decoratively stamped, or scored to give the appearance of individual tiles.

Buyers of classic homes today are occasionally surprised to be informed by a contractor that a floor initially assumed to be ceramic tile or even brick is actually poured magnesite from the 1930s. Indeed, when highly stylized magnesite flooring was installed in expensive residences of that era, the workers who did the job were usually considered skilled artisans.

The Virtues of Magnesite

Why was magnesite the flooring fad of the early 20th century? Several factors combined to make this mixture so popular at the time and still hold substantial appeal even today.

Versatility

Because wet magnesite is a pourable, spreadable material, it can be adapted to flooring in a wide variety of places. Virtually anywhere this mixture can be poured into place and smoothed, magnesite cures into hard flooring. Imprints and designs of all sorts can be applied and the wet material can be molded into curves and other shapes impossible to achieve with linoleum, ceramic, or stone flooring.

Areas of the house that were problematic for installing conventional floor tiles can be readily coated with a half-inch deep layer of wet magnesite applied directly to the wood subfloor, then dried to a hard, impermeable surface. Because dried magnesite is comparatively lightweight, it can be installed in areas not structurally appropriate for heavy stone flooring like slate or marble.

After pouring, wet magnesite can also be conformed into a slight slope to shed water. The material has thus often been utilized in outdoor applications such as patio floors.

Durability

Magnesite is actually classified as a variety of cement. That fact alone conveys something about the durability of the material. However, magnesite differs from cement in that it contains wood pulp or sawdust that also adds resiliency. Cement is a strong but brittle material.

Magnesite, on the other hand, has a certain amount of “give” that makes it more durable under normal household wear and tear. Strike a magnesite floor with a heavy object like a hammer and it would probably dent, but not crack or break open like more brittle flooring such as ceramic tile or stone. A magnesite floor should last at least 30 years and many carefully maintained floors from the golden age of magnesite 60 years ago are still intact and beautiful.

Low Maintenance

Magnesite is impervious to oil or grease. Because it is a poured material, a magnesite floor is totally seamless so there are no issues with grout staining or discoloration that are typical maintenance concerns with other types of tile. Nor is water penetration between individual tiles a problem.  Back in the day, magnesite was typically maintained with regular applications of tung oil or basic old-school floor wax.

Today, magnesite is usually sealed every 18 months with modern acrylic sealants similar to those utilized for concrete.

Fire Safety

Magnesite is non-flammable and fireproof. That’s another big reason for its utilization in home and apartment building construction of the early 20th century. Prior to magnesite, flooring in many homes and rental units was often simply finished wood or cheap linoleum, in those days, a highly flammable material. The fire hazard was substantial and fires in multi-unit buildings with many fatalities were common.

Composed of low-cost ingredients, magnesite was a price-competitive and safer alternative to bare wood or flammable linoleum. It could be quickly poured into place and after drying would not ignite when exposed to common fire sources such as dropped cigarettes or matches. The military still utilizes magnesite flooring to this day in environments where high explosives are present but a steel floor would be dangerous due to the potential for sparks.

Magnesite in the 21st Century

Magnesite is enjoying a sort of renaissance today as it is increasingly utilized in homes and commercial settings where the design scheme calls for a classic ambience that harks back to the early 20th century. In existing homes from that era where magnesite flooring is still in place, but perhaps long-since covered by other flooring, homeowners are increasingly opting to reveal the original floor material and restore it to like-new condition.

New installations of magnesite are also increasingly doable, with two caveats. First, pouring a magnesite floor is a specialty not offered by most flooring contractors. It may be considered a skill that is not widespread in the industry, though it is becoming more available as demand continues to resurge. Depending on your location, a person with the expertise required to do the job may still be hard to find.

However, outfits that repair existing magnesite floors may also do installation of new floors, as well, or can refer you to someone qualified to do so. Second, because it is a specialized skill, magnesite is typically more expensive than many (but certainly not all) other flooring materials in common use today. While the basic ingredients of magnesite and the tools utilized are not costly, the expertise to achieve the desired result usually comes at a higher price.

Although not yet well know in the home improvement world, eucalyptus flooring has a number of advantages over many more popular flooring wood species. It stands up well to foot-traffic and moisture, it’s environmentally sustainable, and it’s so easy to work with you can install the flooring yourself even if you have little home improvement experience.

Pros: Low Cost and Reliable Performance

With its exceptional durability and understated beauty, eucalyptus flooring is well suited to any room in even the busiest of homes.

Moisture Tolerance

One of the greatest advantages of eucalyptus flooring is its ability to resist moisture damage. Many common eucalyptus species grow in humid, rainy climates, so their wood is adapted to high moisture levels. In fact, they’re better suited to humid locations than most hardwoods.

This makes eucalyptus an excellent choice if you live in a humid region, such as the Southeast, or you need a floor for a room where moisture is an issue, such as the bathroom, kitchen, or basement.

Versatile Appearance

The eucalyptus genus contains more than 600 species, so there’s a lot of variety in the wood’s appearance. The natural color of eucalyptus ranges from smokey white to deep chocolate brown, although most species are a medium tan similar to white oak. Despite the wood’s hardness, it takes stain well and can be stained in shades ranging from white to nearly ebony.

The relatively fine, straight grain lends the wood a classic elegance, while the subtle color variations and small knotholes add visual interest without calling too much attention to the floor. Eucalyptus strikes a balance between the uniformity of maple and the showiness of acacia, allowing it to fit into both modern and traditional decor schemes.

Durability and Ease of Maintenance

Eucalyptus is hard enough to resist dents, dings, and scratches even in high-traffic commercial settings such as retail showrooms and restaurants. It’s resistance to moisture damage means it’s unlikely to stain as long as you clean up spills as soon as you find them.

To maintain your floor beyond weekly sweeping or vacuuming, occasional damp mopping with a mild cleaner is enough. You won’t need to, and in fact you shouldn’t, wax a eucalyptus floor. Most flooring manufacturers offer at least a 25-year warranty on eucalyptus flooring in residential spaces, but some extend that to 50 years.

A eucalyptus floor’s durability depends in part on how it’s made. Two types of eucalyptus flooring are available – traditional and strand woven. Traditional is made from planks cut out of lumber. While it’s highly durable, it’s still less durable than the strand woven version.

Strand woven eucalyptus flooring is made from strips of eucalyptus compressed under high pressure and heat to fuse the wood fibers into a single plank. This creates flooring that’s harder than many natural hardwoods and often has a more pronounced, complex grain. The process also reduces waste by making use of wood scraps.

Easy Installation

Eucalyptus flooring planks are easy to work with, and even relatively inexperienced DIYers can finish installing a floor in a small room within a day. Traditional eucalyptus flooring planks are most often available in tongue and groove form, while strand woven flooring can be found in both tongue and groove form and click and lock form. You can use the floating floor installation method or the nail-down or glue-down method with either form of plank.

Low Cost

Economically speaking, eucalyptus is a highly sensible flooring option. Priced between $5 to $7 per sq. ft., the cost is around half that of most traditional hardwood flooring. The cost is so low not because the wood is low quality, but because the trees are so fast-growing and abundant. Eucalyptus grows at twice the speed of most popular American hardwoods, so supplies are replenished faster.

Because this type of flooring is so easy to install, you won’t need to hire an installer, which reduces your total costs even further. The floor will stay looking good for decades with only basic care, saving you on maintenance and replacement costs.

Environmental Sustainability

Eucalyptus is one of Australia’s most iconic trees, and given the country’s on-going bush fire problem, you might assume it’s risky to use what eucalyptus is left for flooring. In reality, eucalyptus is one of the most environmentally sustainable flooring choices around.

Most commercial eucalyptus comes not from Australia, but from Asia and South America. Eucalyptus can thrive even in a dry climate, reducing the crop’s demand for water. The trees reach maturity in 3 to 10 years, depending on the species. Because of this quick growth rate, the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) qualifies eucalyptus as a rapidly renewable resource. Such resources decrease stress on the environment and reduce reliance on fossil-fuel products.

In comparison, many popular American hardwoods take 20 to 50 years to mature, meaning harvesting them poses a greater risk of damage to the surrounding environment.

Particularly if you’re looking at low-cost brands, choosing Chinese eucalyptus flooring is often more eco-friendly than sticking with an American hardwood option. Most flooring sold in the U.S., regardless of wood species, is manufactured in China. Waste and carbon output is lower when the flooring is made from eucalyptus grown in China rather than when American hardwood is shipped from the U.S. to China for processing then shipped back to the U.S.

When you shop, look for flooring made from wood that carries Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification. An international non-profit organization, the FSC provides certification to forest owners who can prove they meet basic environmental and ethical standards in growing and harvesting their wood.

Cons: Uncommon and Pricier than Some

It takes some effort to find eucalyptus flooring, and it will cost you more than non-hardwood options.

Hard to Find

Compared to long-time flooring favorites such as oak, maple, and pine, eucalyptus is still a little-known option. Chances are, you won’t find it at your local home improvement store, and your search will be even more challenging if you’re looking for a particular color or style.

Most homeowners who choose eucalyptus turn to the internet to find smaller, specialist flooring retailers who offer this wood. While ordering online does mean paying for shipping, it also gives you access to a much wider range of choices.

Not the Cheapest Flooring

If your goal is to maximize your flooring budget and you’re not particularly concerned with what species of wood you buy, eucalyptus might not be your best choice. Bamboo, which averages around $3 to $5 per sq. ft., is around 20 percent cheaper than eucalyptus and offers many similar advantages, such as eco-friendliness, versatility, and ease of installation.

With some searching, you might also find cork flooring that’s cheaper than eucalyptus. If you don’t have your heart set on using natural materials, you can get laminate flooring for even less.

If you’re looking for flooring that’s durable and eco-friendly yet easy on the wallet, eucalyptus should be high on your list. It might take some searching to find the style you want, but once you do, you can enjoy a low-maintenance floor for decades.

The very word “mahogany” evokes images of beautifully furnished luxury homes and with good reason. As a flooring wood, mahogany’s rich color and smooth grain lend an air of sophistication to a room. As attractive as it is, though, the color can be a little unpredictable and the many types of wood called mahogany make shopping somewhat complicated.

Pros: Outstanding Coloring and Durability

Although best known for its striking color, mahogany is also a tough wood that stands up well to foot traffic, and it’s not as expensive as you might expect.

Warm Color

New mahogany flooring starts out a pale tan, but as it’s exposed to UV light (sunlight) over time, it darkens to a deep reddish-brown with variations of honey, bronze, and dark brown. You won’t need to worry about this floor fading in sunlight. The grain is distinct, but typically straight and close, giving the floor a consistent appearance. Mahogany with ribbon-like interlocked grain is also fairly common. This grain produces intricately rippling color shifts across the floor.

The wood takes a polish easily, making it well suited to modern decor styles. With less polish, the deep color of mahogany is right at home in a rustic cabin setting.

Hard and Durable  

Genuine South American mahogany (Swietenia spp.) is comparable to cherry in hardness, making it moderately durable. Other types of mahogany, such as African mahogany (Khaya spp.) are harder than some oak, walnut, and even maple species, so despite its refined appearance, it can stand up to a lot of wear with minimal scratches and dings. That makes it ideal for the living room, kitchen or other high-traffic area as well as for homes with active kids or large dogs.

Both South American and African mahogany species are resistant to water damage, fungi, and pests. In particular, they’re known as termite-resistant woods, so they’re practical choices if you live in an area where these insects pose a major threat.

Mahogany flooring planks are typically quarter sawn from logs, which gives them greater stability with less risk of warping or cupping compared to more common plain sawn planks.

Easy to Work With

For a hard wood, mahogany is relatively easy to work. It machines easily, although there’s some risk of chipping with mahogany that has an interlocked grain. The wood can be glued without issues, is easy to sand, and takes stain well.

Easy to Care For

Once a week or whenever the floor looks dusty, sweep it with a dry mop or clean it with a soft-bristled vacuum cleaner. Spot clean as needed with a microfiber cloth or other soft, lint-free cloth dampened in a solution of 1 cup warm water and 2 Tbsp. white vinegar. For stubborn spots, add 1 or 2 Tbsp. liquid dish soap. Avoid abrasive cleaners, which can damage the finish.

Moderately Priced

Compared to other exotic hardwoods, mahogany is moderately priced. The cost runs from $14 to $30 per board foot. On average, genuine mahogany costs more than oak or maple, but less than teak and walnut. Not all mahogany flooring is “genuine,” though, and similar woods are often sold as mahogany for even less.

Cons: Staining and Shopping Challenges

Mahogany’s color changes can pose some problems, and this wood isn’t the best choice if you’re on a tight budget.

Color Problems

You won’t really know exactly what color your mahogany floor will be until it’s been in place for a few years. The rate at which mahogany darkens and how dark it gets depends in part on how much sunlight hits it. In a sunny room, the wood will darken faster. This can become a problem when areas under rugs or furniture don’t darken as much as exposed areas. Rearranging your furniture now and then helps prevent this.

The wood’s color changes also make it harder to choose stain because a stain color that looks deep and rich early on might prove too dark after a year or so.

As with any dark-toned wood, mahogany shows dust, crumbs, and pet hair easily. While maintaining a mahogany floor isn’t difficult, sweeping can turn into a daily task if you want to keep your floor looking spotless.

Not for Low Budgets

While genuine mahogany is more affordable than many exotic hardwoods, it’s not a cheap flooring wood. This is partly due to the wood’s status as a threatened species. For a lower cost alternative with similar properties, consider khaya, sapele or toona wood, which are all in the mahogany family, or a more widely available wood such as cherry.  

Confusing Terminology

Flooring retailers have been known to use the name mahogany for many different wood species, but not all those woods have the same characteristics. Choose the wrong one, and you might be disappointed with the appearance and durability.

Mahogany trees belong to the family Meliaceae, which is divided into more than 50 genera. The wood known as genuine mahogany comes from three species of trees in the genus Swietenia. For centuries, the preferred species was Swietenia macrophylla, also known as Honduran mahogany or Brazilian mahogany.

Due to demand, however, this species became threatened and is now under international trade restrictions with export strictly controlled. Much of the genuine mahogany available is grown on sustainable plantations located around the world.

More commonly on the American market today, you’ll find khaya wood, particularly Khaya invorensis. This group of trees, also called African mahogany, is in the same family as genuine mahogany, but in a different genus. Its coloring and durability are comparable to those of genuine mahogany, so it’s an ideal alternative.

Mahogany’s deep, warm color give it a timeless appeal, and its durability makes it perfect for a busy family home. Although it’s not great for a tight budget, it’s a modestly priced option if you’re looking for luxury flooring. On the downside, age-related color changes mean there’s a chance the final color of your floor will be darker than you hoped.

If you’re looking for a wood that will turn your floor into the focal point of the room, tigerwood is it. Also known as African walnut, goncalo alves, and Brazilian koa, tigerwood is endowed with bold splashes of color that set it apart from plainer hardwoods.

The durability and water-resistance of this wood add to its value as a flooring material. Due to environmental concerns and installation difficulties, though, you’ll need to do some planning if you want this wood in your home.

Pros: Remarkable Coloring and Exceptional Durability

Striking Color Patterns

Tigerwood takes its name from its vibrant tiger-like stripes, which range from light orange and golden tan to a deep russet brown, varying in thickness from broad strokes to delicate lines. There are few knots to interfere with the flow of colors. No other wood used for flooring looks quite like it.

Whereas the relatively plain coloration of oak, maple, and birch quietly recedes to create an unobtrusive backdrop for your furniture and decor, tigerwood turns your floor into a focal point in and of itself. It’s ideal if you prefer simple furniture, but still want to give the room some personality.

Unlike most woods, tigerwood is graded primarily based on its coloring. It’s most often available in clear grade and common grade. Clear grade offers brown and black stripes against an overall deep rosy-orange base. Common grade has less pronounced color variation and might include minor defects such as planer grooves or ripples.

Exceptional Hardness and Durability

With a 1850 Janka scale rating, tigerwood is harder than most flooring hardwoods, including maple and pecan hickory. Its tough surface resists dents and dings, so it stays looking new longer.

It’s a great choice for families with young children or large dogs. On the other hand, it’s somewhat softer and more resilient than ipe or cumaru wood, making it more comfortable underfoot.

Resistance to Water Damage

Tigerwood’s high density and abundance of natural oils give it a strong advantage in water-resistance. Once a finish is applied, tigerwood is unlikely to warp, crack or rot even in a relatively damp environment.

Like famously weather-resistant teakwood, it’s often used for decking and outdoor furniture. While wood flooring generally isn’t recommended for bathrooms, if you have your heart set on a hardwood bathroom floor, tigerwood is one of the best choices.

Affordability

As an exotic hardwood, tigerwood isn’t the cheapest thing you could put on your floor, but it is less expensive than ipe, teak, and ebony. Typically, you’ll find the price comparable to mahogany and cumaru. It’s an economical option if you’re looking for a highly durable, moisture-resistant wood with distinct coloring.

Easy Maintenance

To keep your tigerwood floor clean, it’s enough to damp mop it once a week with a solution of 1/4 cup white vinegar in a quart of water. A solution of 1/4 cup liquid Castile soap and 2 gallons of water also works well. These mild cleaners break down grime without harming the floor’s finish or causing discoloration.

If you need to clean up the floor more often, use a dust mop. Avoid harsh cleaners not designed for exotic hardwoods and never leave standing water on the floor.

Cons: Color Changes and Difficult Installation

Darkening Colors

The rich color variations tigerwood is so loved for don’t always stay as prominent as they are when the floor is new. The lighter colors of the sapwood tend to deepen over time into a reddish or dark brown, so they contrast less with the darker heartwood. It’s a problem common to many richly hued hardwoods, but it can take the drama out of a tigerwood floor.

That said, noticeable color changes usually take at least 10 years, and you can slow the process by using UV-filtering window shades or film to limit the amount of sunlight that hits the floor.

Environmental Concerns

While the tigerwood tree itself isn’t an endangered species, the rainforests where it grows are often endangered by over-logging. Thanks to the growing interest in this wood, many of the African and South American countries where it grows have established export restrictions to prevent over-harvesting and resulting environmental damage.

Brazil, where much of the tigerwood in the US comes from, has particularly tight controls.

On the plus side, tigerwood is a fast-growing species, making it a more sustainable alternative to the slower growing ipe wood. If you decide you want tigerwood in your home, choose wood that carries Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification, which ensures the wood was sustainably harvested.

Not Ideal for DIY Projects

Tigerwood’s hardness makes it difficult to install without professional grade tools. Cutting it requires carbon-tipped saw blades. To use screws or nails, you’ll need to pre-drill holes, which requires a drill with a carbide bit. Gluing the wood is possible, but not easy thanks to the natural oils that inhibit the glue from setting. Sanding is a challenge because tigerwood dust can irritate your skin and eyes.

Just as it resists water penetration, tigerwood also resists stains and preservatives. Only very low viscosity products will do the job.

For a floor that steals the show, it’s hard to do better than tigerwood. The wood’s bold, variegated coloring will add warmth to a living room or bedroom and a little extra flair to a game room or home bar. Its hardness means you won’t have to worry about it getting scratched up by your kids and pets.

It’s a challenge for a DIY-er to work with, though, so budget for professional installation when planning your new floor.