Plumbing

A good plumber is upfront about their work and their prices, but not all are so honest. Some unscrupulous plumbers run scams that not only cost you money, but can also damage your plumbing system.

The most common plumbing scams aren’t always obvious, though, and it’s easy to get reeled in before you realize what’s happening. To protect your wallet and your plumbing, get familiar with the tricks of dishonest plumbers so you can stop a scam before it starts.

Dodging the Details

A responsible plumber will be happy to provide their plumbing license number, proof of insurance, and any other credentials you might ask to see to confirm their competence and legal standing. In fact, most plumbers post this information on their website, business cards, and other marketing material.
 
If a plumber hesitates to show you their credentials or makes excuses for why they can’t, that’s a red flag that you’re dealing with someone who’s less than honest. If the plumber provides their license number only after you dragged it out of them, it might be that the license isn’t in good standing. Check with your state’s Contractors State License Board to make sure the plumber’s license is valid.

Crooked for Cash

A plumber insisting on cash-only payment is likely up to something, especially if they aren’t willing to provide an invoice or receipt for their work. At best, a cash-only plumber is dodging taxes, but will otherwise do good work. In the worst case scenario, the plumber is uninsured or even unlicensed. If the job goes wrong, you’ll have little recourse to get the damage repaired or even get your money back.

Likewise, walk away from any plumber asking for a large up-front deposit. Disappearing with a deposit is one of the most common plumbing scams around, in large part because paying 50 percent of a job in advance sounds reasonable to many homeowners, so it’s easy for a plumber to pass off as normal.

In most states, the law prohibits a plumber from requiring any more than 10 percent of the payment upfront. Most plumbers require payment only after the work is completed to your satisfaction. Don’t buy excuses such as the plumber claiming they need the money to purchase supplies or that they’re wary because they’ve been cheated by clients before.

Elusive Estimates

Plumbing systems are complex, and it’s impossible for a plumber to accurately estimate the cost of a job before inspecting the situation in person. Some do offer fixed-price deals for simple jobs, such as drain clog removals, but for anything more involved, they can only give a rough, preliminary estimate before they visit you. Any plumber giving you a firm estimate over the phone before they’ve been to your house could be hiding something. This goes double if the estimate sounds too low to be true.

Even after a home inspection, a verbal estimate isn’t enough. A plumber who won’t provide a written quote before the work begins might be setting you up to be overcharged.  

A dishonest plumber might claim to be making mental notes as they look over your pipes, then leave saying they’ll put everything together into an itemized estimate and call you later. When the plumber calls, they offer a temptingly low verbal estimate and the promise of a written estimate later. The plumber then pushes you to get started right away to take advantage of that low offer.

If you fall for this plumbing scam, you’ll find the written estimate never materializes. Instead, the plumber completes the job and hands you a bill for several times the original verbal estimate. To avoid this scam, allow work to begin only after you have a written quote and a signed contract that states how much you’ll pay and when.

False Promises

Practical homeowners are often happy to pay top prices for top quality materials, expecting their new plumbing to last a decade, at least. Few know exactly what kind of pipes, fittings, and other products constitute high quality, though, and that creates an opportunity for dishonest plumbers. A plumber might claim to be installing durable PEX pipes and charge accordingly. In reality, they use a cheap substitute, such as PVC pipes, and pocket the difference in price.

To make sure you get the quality you pay for, ask your plumber for a list of the parts they plan to use in your project. Take the list to a plumbing supply store or hardware store and compare prices. You can expect the plumber to make some profit, but if you’re being charged several times the cost of the product, ask your plumber why.

If the job is already done, compare the products listed on your invoice with what’s actually in your plumbing system. If the invoice lists a Kohler or American Standard PEX valve, but the valve in your shower is some other brand or material entirely, call your plumber to find out why.

Too Many Plumbers in the Kitchen

This plumbing scam is more common with complex, multi-day projects. It starts innocently enough when the plumber you signed a contract with gets started on the agreed-upon work. Soon enough, though, one or more extra people show up. Sometimes, the extra person is an assistant or apprentice doing legitimate work, and there’s nothing to worry about.

Other times, when you’ve run into a shady plumber, the extra worker is the plumber’s friend or relative who’s come by to do a few basic tasks and then charge an exorbitant rate for their work. Your originally contracted plumber will then claim that because the “assistant” is a subcontractor, they set their own rates, and there’s nothing the plumber can do about it.

To protect yourself from this scam, if any extra workers arrive, ask why they’re necessary. Make sure the cost of their work is included in your written quote. If at any point you’re not sure who’s doing what and why, get clarification before you allow the work to continue.

Affluence Fees

Many plumbers don’t have fixed hourly rates, which gives them some flexibility when charging for jobs in the wide variety of situations they encounter. This doesn’t always work in your favor, though. If you live in a well-off neighborhood, have a luxury car parked out front, or show any other signs of wealth, a plumber might assume you’ll be happy to shell out more than the average client.

As long as the work is done as promised, this type of rate-setting isn’t a scam per se, but it can still cost you big. Some plumbers charge up to double their typical rate when they think a homeowner can afford it. A little shopping around can save you here. Before you commit to one plumber, ask at least three to look over the work you need done and offer an estimate. Any rate that’s dramatically higher than the others is suspect.

Pushy Plumbers

High-pressure sales and scare tactics are always a sign you should walk away. Honest plumbers have no interest in bullying someone into spending money with them. Dishonest plumbers, however, sometimes use pressure to take advantage of the elderly, newly arrived immigrants or others they feel might not be aware of their rights. They might tell you your plumbing is putting your home at risk for massive damages or that your neighbors could sue you for damage to their property.

If your plumber leaves you feeling uneasy, send them away and call a reputable plumbing company to check your situation out. Insist your plumber explain why the work they’re recommending is necessary. If they claim your plumbing system poses a safety risk, they should be able to tell you exactly why and how they plan to fix it.

By checking credentials and references, getting a written estimate before work begins, and asking questions about anything you don’t understand, you can protect yourself from the most common plumbing scams. Doing your due diligence and speaking up when you feel something isn’t right goes a long way toward avoiding the damage a shady plumber can cause.

Because your septic system is such a critical part of your home, it’s natural to want to do whatever you can to keep it running reliably. Manufacturers of septic tank additives know this and offer products that promise to reduce the need for pumping, dissolve clogs or otherwise improve your septic system. 

In reality, though, these additives aren’t necessary and often do more harm than good. Before you decide to add anything to your septic tank, get to know how these systems and the most common additives work.

How Septic Systems Work Without Additives

The biggest reason so many people use unnecessary or harmful septic tank additives is that they don’t really understand how a septic system does its job. Septic systems work by taking advantage of a completely natural biological process that doesn’t need any human intervention. They’re designed to work without additives.

Your septic tank receives all the wastewater and waste solids from your home’s plumbing system. This waste contains bacteria that, once in the septic tank, separate the waste into layers. Solids fall to the bottom creating a layer known as sludge, while fats rise to the top to create a scum layer.

In the middle is a layer of clear wastewater called effluent. In most systems, the effluent flows through devices that further purify it and gradually release it into the soil.

The natural bacteria in the tank get all the nutrients they need from the waste that’s already there with them. You don’t need to add more, feed them or support them at all. If you add more bacteria without more waste, the bacteria will only eat each other. The bacteria are anaerobic, so they don’t even need air.

All your tank needs to stay in shape is regular inspection and pumping to remove the solid sludge layer. No additive can break down this layer to delay or replace pumping.

Inspect the system or have it professionally inspected every one to three years, depending on the system type. Have the tank pumped to remove solid waste every two to five years depending on your household size, how often you use the tank, and your climate.

The False Promise of Septic Tank Additives

Manufacturers of septic tank additives typically claim their products help break down the solid waste layer or the scum layer so you won’t need to have your tank pumped as often. Other products promised to restore a clogged soil absorption system.

Additives come in two types:

Biological additives – These are bacteria, yeast, and enzyme products manufacturers sell as a way to start a new septic system or support an overworked system. Because the system gets all the bacteria it needs from the incoming waste, though, biological additives are unnecessary. They won’t harm your system, but they don’t help, either.

If your system really is overworked, you either need to cut back on your water use or have the tank pumped more often. In some cases, the system might have been designed or installed incorrectly and will have to be overhauled.

Chemical additives – This group includes organic and inorganic products formulated to break down the sludge or scum layer, control odor or restore a clogged drainfield. Household drain cleaners and degreasers fall into this category. These are more dangerous than biological additives because they often upset the pH balance in the tank enough to kill the bacteria the tank needs to run properly.

The ones that actually do what they promise interfere with the waste separation process. For example, by dissolving the scum layer, they can cause scum to seep into your soil and groundwater. At worst, they can damage the system’s pipes and other components.

Gentler household products, such as hydrogen peroxide, won’t harm the bacteria much, but can still contaminate the drainfield’s soil, reducing its ability to purify wastewater.

If you notice a foul odor or pooling water around the drainfield or your drains are running slowly, your septic tank needs to be pumped. No additive will solve these problems.  

Managing Special Situations

Some septic tank additives are marketed for use in unusual situations, but even in these cases, there’s little an additive can do.

In a vacation home where the septic system goes unused for months at a time, the bacteria load can drop so low the system isn’t as efficient as it would normally be. To solve this problem, save any heavy water-use activities, such as running the dishwasher or doing laundry, for after the toilet has been used a few times to add more bacteria.

Some septic service providers include bacterial treatments for infrequently used systems as part of their cleaning and inspection services, but beware of anyone pushing you to buy separate additive products.

If your septic system hasn’t been used for several years, have it professionally inspected before you start using it. As long as the tank isn’t damaged and the pipes haven’t accumulated dirt, though, the system should be just fine. If there is damage or dirt, you’ll need professional repair work or cleaning. Additives won’t help.

Hosting a full house of guests for a few weeks can strain your septic system. To protect the system, you can ask your guests to limit their water use, but you don’t need to add a bacteria product.

With all the septic tank additives on the market, it’s tempting to think at least a few of them might help your system run more efficiently. In reality, biological additives are largely a waste of money, and chemical additives can harm the system.

The best thing you can do for your septic system is to let it work as designed with only natural bacteria. Beyond that, have it pumped and inspected regularly, and it will perform well for decades.

When you’re already using it, the city sewer system is a convenience that’s easy to take for granted. Tap into it for the first time, though, and you’ll find there’s more to it than flipping a switch.

Whether you need a sewer tap for a new house or because you’re tired of your septic tank, understanding how these fittings work can save you time and hassle.

The Sewer Tap’s Role

A sewer tap is the connection between your home’s sewer lateral (waste water line) and the municipal sewer system. The pipe fitting that forms this connection lets waste water from your home flow into the sewer system, so you don’t need a septic tank to hold it. It also forms a seal that prevents waste water from escaping into the ground.

If you’re building a new house or switching your existing house from a septic tank to the municipal system, you’ll need to file for permits and hire a plumbing contractor to have your home hooked up to a sewer tap.

Getting Your Sewer Tap Installed

Connecting to a municipal sewer system isn’t a cheap or quick project. The cost of permits and labor vary widely by location, but typically come to between $3,000 to $10,000.

Chances are, the sewer tap for your property has already been installed by the city, and is capped off and waiting until someone needs it. In this case, you’ll need to apply for permits to use the tap, then hire a contractor to make the connection.

If no sewer tap is in place, either the city water utility or your contractor can probably install one for you. There’s a limit to the number of taps a city sewer line can support, though, so it’s possible you won’t be able to tap into your city’s system. This is one of the main reasons so many homes end up using a septic tank.  

Before you consider hooking your home up to the sewer system, call your local water utility and ask if a sewer tap is available for your address, where it’s located, and the cost of the tap fee.

When you’re sure you’ll be able to use the city system, you can start looking for plumbing contractors licensed to perform sewer taps. Your city water utility might even be able to give you a list of licensed contractors. While some contractors take care of all the permits for you, others require you to do the paperwork yourself.

If you need to arrange the permits yourself, typically you’ll first need to apply for a sewer tap permit and wait for the city to perform an inspection. The contractor might also require you to get a right-of-way permit before they can start work.

Once all the paperwork is in order, your contractor will come install a sewer lateral that extends from your home to the municipal sewer main. The job requires the contractor to dig a trench for the pipe, so prepare for some damage to your lawn.

If your sewer lateral is already in place, the contractor will try to align it with the sewer tap to avoid having to move it.

If you have a septic system, the contractor will close it, usually by filling it with sand or gravel. The majority of the work can be done in one day, although it might take longer than eight hours.

After the work is done, the tap must be inspected by the city health department or another appropriate authority to ensure your home’s sewer lateral and the sewer tap are correctly installed and that the septic system, if any, is properly closed.

Maintaining Your Sewer Tap

Your sewer tap is considered part of your home’s sewer lateral, so it’s up to you, not the city, to maintain it. For the most part, though, the tap itself requires next to no maintenance. Protecting it from damage is mostly a matter of keeping your lateral free from clogs.

Over time, even well maintained sewer tap fittings wear down or work loose and need to be replaced. When this happens, you might not realize anything is wrong until you get a letter from the city inspector.

In other cases, a plumber clearing out a clog or repairing a leak in your sewer lateral might spot a problem with the tap. This is one reason an annual plumbing inspection is so valuable.

Your plumber can use video inspection equipment to check over your plumbing system and let you know about any developing problems with your sewer tap or other parts of the system. This way you’ll have time to plan for repairs. The plumber can also tell you what might have caused the damage, so you can prevent it from happening again.

If your sewer tap fitting needs to be replaced, a licensed contractor can do the job, then arrange for city inspectors to come confirm that everything is up to code.

Tapping into your city’s sewer system can save you the trouble of maintaining a septic tank. While the work itself only takes a day, you might need a few weeks to get through all the red tape involved.

If you’re considering having a sewer tap installed, start by talking with your local water utility to find out if it’s possible and what kind of permits you’ll need.

Tankless toilets offer more than just aesthetic appeal. Their streamlined forms and relatively small sizes mean they save space in your bathroom and their advanced flushing method helps save water, too.

These toilets aren’t a good fit for every home, though. They work differently from conventional toilets, so if you’re thinking about installing one, make sure you understand the requirements before you decide.

How Tankless Toilets Differ

The tankless toilet’s design isn’t just for looks. It’s a direct result of the way the toilet operates. In a conventional tank toilet, the tank sits above the bowl to allow gravity to draw down the water in the tank for use in flushing the toilet. Afterwards, the tank re-fills with water for the next flush.

A tankless toilet doesn’t need a tank because it doesn’t need to store water. Instead, it’s hooked up to the building’s plumbing system and flushes in one of two ways: either water enters the bowl at a high pressure directly from the plumbing pipes or an electric pump in the toilet bowl provides additional pressure for the flush.

In most homes, the plumbing system lacks the pressure needed to flush a toilet, so residential tankless toilets are usually equipped with a pump.

The Benefits: More Free Space, Less Water Use

The biggest advantage of a tankless toilet is the freedom it gives you in getting the look you want for your bathroom. The precision flushing mechanism some models offer helps you save water, too.

Design Flexibility

Tankless toilets free from the clunky, old-fashioned tank that takes up wall and floor space, giving you more space to design as you want. Their compact size makes them ideal for smaller bathrooms. Designed in sleek, contemporary forms, these toilets can instantly update the look of your bathroom.

You can install a tankless toilet on the floor or mount it on the wall to free up floor space and give your bathroom a more open, airy atmosphere. Mounting the toilet on the wall also allows you to adjust the height to one you find comfortable.

A tankless toilet can even make your bathroom more convenient to use. Because the bowl refills so quickly, the toilet can be used again almost immediately. That helps shorten the line at the bathroom door that often forms when you have a large family, or you’re hosting a big get-together.

Reduced Water Use

Currently manufactured toilets, whether tankless or conventional, are required by law to use no more than 1.6 gallons of water per flush (gpf). Some more advanced tankless models, however, let you choose how many gallons are used per flush, giving you a water-saving option few conventional toilets can match.

If you currently use an older toilet, upgrading to a tankless model will definitely reduce your water consumption. Conventional toilets manufactured in the 1980s use 3.5 gpf, and those made earlier use as much as 7 gpf, so any modern toilet is a major improvement.

By choosing a tankless toilet, you’ll know you’re getting a modern, water-saving design. Better yet, there’s no risk of a tank leak developing and allowing the toilet to run continuously and waste water.

The Drawbacks: Cost and Installation Issues

The visual appeal and convenient size of these toilets don’t come cheap. Tankless models cost more to buy and to install than conventional models. To complicate matters, they require large pipes and high water pressure that not all residential buildings are supplied with.

High Up-front Costs

Tankless toilets typically come with higher purchase prices than conventional toilets, starting at around $900 and rising into the thousands. Considering a tankless toilet can help you cut your water bill, though, it’s still a smart long-term investment, particularly if you have a large family and your bathroom sees a lot of use.

Demanding Installation Requirements

Tankless toilets require high water pressure to operate. That’s why they’re most often found in large commercial and public buildings, such as shopping centers or airports, which can support the large pipes needed for such high water pressure. In many residential buildings, the plumbing can’t handle this kind of pressure.

Install one of these toilets in a home with standard residential water supply lines, and the pressure from flushing could leave you with damaged pipes and a toilet that no longer works.

Before you settle on installing a tankless toilet, check that your home’s plumbing meets the requirements. If it doesn’t, it’s still possible to retrofit the toilet by upgrading the plumbing, but this will greatly increase the cost of installation. If you’re building a new home, plan to install large supply lines that will work with a tankless toilet.

While installing a conventional toilet is a fairly straight-forward job for a seasoned DIY-er, installing a tankless toilet is more complex and should be left to a professional. Wall-mounted toilets are especially difficult to install, requiring the plumber to open up the wall to access the pipes.

Repairing a tankless toilet is also a job for a professional. Both these factors further raise the cost of choosing a tankless model. On the plus side, tankless toilets are less likely to develop repair issues compared to conventional models.

Power Outage Problems

Because most tankless toilets designed for residential use rely on an electric pump to flush, they won’t work during a power outage. If there’s a chance of a storm or other issue knocking out your power for days, a tankless toilet might not be the best choice.

Naturally, if your home is on a well that uses an electric pump, a conventional toilet will also fail to work when the power’s out, so your choice of toilet won’t make any difference.

With more and more tankless toilet models including electric pumps, tankless toilets are increasingly practical for the average home. They save space, conserve water, and bring a polished, modern touch to your bathroom.

On the other hand, they require plumbing conditions that not all buildings can provide, and purchase, installation and repairs can all get costly. If you’re in an old building or you’re on a tight budget, you’re most likely better off sticking with a conventional toilet.

A garbage disposal lets you scrape dirty dishes straight into the sink without having to worry about food debris clogging up your pipes. While it might seem hard to go wrong with choosing a convenience like this, these devices have their drawbacks, too. Before you splash out on a new garage disposal, make sure you’re willing to put up with the annoyances it might bring you.

The Pros: Faster, Easier Kitchen Cleaning

A garbage disposal is a relatively small investment that can save you time and hassle after every meal.

They Make Clean-Up Easier

When your sink is equipped with a garbage disposal, you’ll be able to scrape small amounts of uneaten food into the sink instead of having to carry plates to the trash and scrape them there. That makes cleanup after cooking and mealtimes faster and easier. There’s also less risk of dropping crumbs on the floor as you carry plates to and from the trash.

They Protect Your Pipes

When you’ve got a pile of dishes with bits of leftover food stuck on, it can be tempting to just scrape everything into the sink rather than go to the trouble of carrying the plates to the trash can. Over time, though, these food scraps can build up in your pipes and contribute to blockages. A garbage disposal lets you grind down food debris into small particles that are less likely to get stuck in the pipes.

They’re Inexpensive

The average garbage disposal will run you between $70 and $130, and if you’re handy with basic plumbing, you can install it yourself. If not, installing one is a routine and relatively low-cost job for an experienced plumber. Use and maintain your garbage disposal correctly, and you’ll get around eight to 10 years of use out of it.

They Work Almost Everywhere

Garbage disposals are safe for use with almost every type of sewage system, including municipal sewers and septic tanks. If you have a septic tank, however, make sure it’s correctly sized and regularly maintained. Some very old municipal sewage systems might not handle food particles from garbage disposals well.

If you live in an area with a system like this, check with your local waste management or water authority before installing a garbage disposal.

The Cons: Limited Capacity and Extra Maintenance Work

Most garbage disposals can handle only light food scraps from a limited range of foods, and they need weekly cleaning to stay in good condition.

They Require Careful Use

Despite its name, a garbage disposal isn’t a trash can for food. To avoid clogs and jams, you’ll need to keep certain foods out of the disposal, including:

• Fatty foods, such as cooking oil, butter, and cream sauces.
• Starchy foods, such as pasta, rice, and beans.
• Fibrous foods, such as banana peels, potato peels, celery, and carrots.
• Hard materials, such as bones, fruit pits, and seafood shells.

This rather long list means you can’t mindlessly scrape all your plates into the sink. Of course, traces of pasta Alfredo from one meal won’t instantly clog up your disposal, but putting in non-disposal-safe foods too often or in large amounts very well could.

How you run the disposal matters, too. Always turn on the cold water before starting the disposal, then let it run as the disposal runs. Gradually feed in small amounts of food debris. When you finish, turn off the disposal and let the water run for another 10 to 20 seconds to flush food particles through the disposal and down the pipes.

They Need Regular Maintenance

Even when you use the garbage disposal correctly, some food particles can end up lingering inside. These particles then decay and can eventually start to smell.

To prevent this, once a week, turn off power to the disposal and clean it. First, wipe down the inner side of the rubber ring around the opening to the drain/disposal. Then use a bottle brush to scrub out the inside of the disposal. Between cleanings, you can freshen your disposal by grinding up ice cubes made of vinegar or a lemon or other citrus fruit cut into small pieces.

They Can Clog, Jam, and Break

If you accidentally drop the wrong type of food or too much food into your garbage disposal, it’s liable to jam. It’s a common occurrence everyone who regularly uses a garbage disposal knows. Sometimes just pressing the reset button will get your disposal started again.

If this doesn’t work, you can try to dislodge the clog by inserting a hex key (Allen wrench) into the flywheel hole in the bottom of the disposal and jiggling the flywheel. Using a broom handle or needle-nosed pliers to reach the clog from the drain opening can also work.

If this sounds like too much trouble, you might want to avoid installing a garbage disposal. Even if you take good care of your disposal, clogs and jams will become more frequent as the appliance ages. Because garbage disposals aren’t easily repaired, if one part of the disposal wears out, you’ll need to replace the whole thing.

A garbage disposal is a nice convenience to have if you prefer to spend as little time as possible cleaning up after meals. If you’re willing to use the care needed to avoid throwing in clog-causing foods and you don’t mind cleaning the appliance every week, you’ll probably find a garbage disposal is worth the investment.

A foul smelling drain can really ruin the ambiance of your kitchen or bathroom. Even worse, those funny smells generally mean there’s a buildup of debris that will eventually clog the drain and leave the sink unusable until you clear out the plumbing. Other possible causes for drain odors include plumbing issues that should be addressed as soon as possible.

Most smelly drains aren’t difficult to clean and taking care of the problem now will give you a more enjoyable home and prevent future plumbing problems.

Clear Out Grimy Drains

If your drain is both smelly and running slowly, start cleaning it up by getting rid of the grime that’s built up inside. While baking soda and vinegar are often recommended for cleaning drains, in reality, this combination does little to break up the fats that are the most common cause of clogs.

For a more effective and equally simple way to clean the drain, use dishwashing liquid and hot water. Choose a dishwashing liquid designed to break up grease, such as Dawn, Ivory or Palmolive. Bring a pan or kettle of water to a boil, then turn off the heat.

Pour 2 or 3 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid into the drain, then slowly pour in the hot water. Wait 15 minutes, then prepare another pan of boiling hot water. Pour the water down the drain to flush away the loosened debris.

For stubborn buildup that won’t wash away with soap and water, try an enzymatic drain cleaner such as CitraDrain Natural Build-Up Remover, Earth Enzymes Drain Opener or Bio-clean Drain Septic Bacteria. The enzymes in these drain cleaners naturally break down clog-causing debris without harming your pipes or the environment.

Enzymatic cleaners won’t work on completely blocked drains, though. To get rid of a smelly blockage, you may need to use a tool such as a plunger or a plumber’s auger (drain snake) to break through the clog.

When possible, also clean the drain’s P-trap, the P-shaped section of pipe under the drain designed to catch debris before it travels farther into the plumbing system and causes a clog there. Place a bucket under the drain, unscrew the P-trap and dump the contents into the bucket. Scrub out the inside of the P-trap with a bottle brush or other tool

Avoid harsh, acidic drain cleaning chemicals, which can damage PVC pipes and pollute the water supply. If you can’t clear the blockage with basic plumbing tools, call a plumber.

A grimy garbage disposal is another potential source of drain odors. Odors can develop if you haven’t cleaned or used your garbage disposal in a while.

All you need to get it clean and fresh-smelling again is ice and a lemon. Prepare two cups of ice cubes and cut a lemon into quarters. Turn on the disposal and pour in a cup of ice while running the cold water. As the disposal is working on the ice, feed in two sections of lemon one at a time.

Repeat the process with the remaining ice and lemon sections. This process removes both built up debris and odors.

To keep odors from forming in the first place, always run the water for 20 seconds after you use the garbage disposal to ensure all the chopped up food waste is washed down the drain.

Once the drain is clean, the bad smells should go away on their own. To clear the air faster, deodorize the drain by slowly pouring 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain while running the warm water. If you keep a box of baking soda in your refrigerator to absorb food odors, when you change the box, use the old baking soda to deodorize your drains.

Get to the Root of Odor-Causing Plumbing Problems

Not all smelly drains are suffering from a buildup of debris. If you notice a sewer odor emerging from one or more drains, the problem isn’t a drain clog, but rather another issue with your plumbing system.

One possibility is a dry p-trap. Part of the p-trap’s job is to block odors from your sewage system so they can’t rise up the drain. In order to work, the p-trap must be filled with water.

When a drain isn’t used for some time, the p-trap dries out and can no longer block odors. The solution is simple: run the faucet for around 10 or 15 seconds or pour a bucket of water down the drain to refill the p-trap.

If all your drains smell unpleasant, a blocked vent pipe could be to blame. Your vent pipe carries sewer gases up to the roof to be released outdoors. Because the vent pipe has an opening on the roof, it can become clogged with leaves, animal nests, or snow.

When this happens, the sewer gases are pushed back down so that they back up into your sink drains. A blocked vent pipe will also cause your drains to run slowly.

You can clean a blocked vent pipe by taking a garden hose up onto the roof and spraying a strong blast of water into the drain. If you’re not comfortable doing this yourself, call a plumber for help.

Another potential cause of odors coming from every drain in the house is a leak or blockage in the sewer line that carries wastewater from your house out to the city sewer system. In this case, you’ll also notice gurgling and frequent clogs in the drains on the ground floor.

A leaking or blocked sewer line can cause serious damage to your home if not corrected quickly and this isn’t a problem you can solve yourself. If you suspect something is wrong with your sewer line, call a plumber.

Keep Your Drains Smelling Fresh

To prevent future odor issues, be careful about what you wash down the drain. Never pour in cooking oil, melted butter or other fats. These quickly solidify in the drain, where they stick around and trap other debris, which eventually starts to smell.

Sticky foods such as rice and pasta and gritty food waste such as coffee grounds and eggshells also shouldn’t go down the drain.

Use drain strainers to catch food particles, soap scum, hair, and other debris before it enters your drains. Once every week or two, clean your drains with dishwashing liquid and hot water to prevent debris from building up.

A smelly drain is a real annoyance, but the problem is often easy to solve yourself with common cleaners and tools you can find in any supermarket or home improvement store. When a DIY solution won’t help, a plumber can usually get your smelly drain problem solved fast.