Plumbing

While urban homes tend to connect to a municipal sewer system, many country and older rural homes make use of a self-contained septic system for waste management. Unlike sewer systems, a septic system requires regular maintenance due to the way it handles your waste. This is costly when working through a waste management company, but you may potentially save money by maintaining the septic system yourself.

How Septic Systems Work

Septic systems consist of two major components: a well or septic tank and a drain field. Updated systems use a septic tank instead of a well for improved efficiency, although some older homes still use wells. While essentially the same concept, there are some minor design differences which may lead to different issues.

The Modern Septic Tank

This large underground tank is directly connected to your home’s main sewage line. When you flush your toilet or run your sink, the waste water flows into the tank where it is digested by anaerobic bacteria. The process separates the waste into three parts. Solid waste sinks to the bottom, and lighter particles form scum on the surface. As more sewage is flushed into the tank, the older water is pushed into drainpipes where it seeps harmlessly into the surrounding field.

Older Cesspool Wells

In older well-based septic systems, there is a large masonry-lined well covered by a stone or concrete lid into which the waste water flows instead of a tank. Once in the well, the anaerobic bacteria begins feeding on the sewage. Solid waste sinks and scum forms along the surface. Unlike tanks, which have pipes leading to a drain field, the well walls have small openings through which the water seeps out into the surrounding ground. As the process is not as efficient as with septic tanks, cesspool wells are now illegal in some states.

Common Problems with Septic Systems

As a general rule, septic systems require little maintenance over the course of a single year and are therefore easily forgotten. This leads to issues which may potentially lead to sewage flooding your yard or backing up into the home. Clogs and a full septic tank are the two most common problems you will encounter.

Clogged Cesspool Wells

Cesspool wells rely upon bacteria to separate the solid and liquid wastes, but this process is not perfect. Over time, the openings in your cesspool may become clogged, causing a wastewater backup. If not kept clean, the cesspool may begin to require pumping several times per year. This may even occur if there is not a large amount of solid waste in the bottom due to the inability of water to escape.

Symptom of a Full Septic Tank

If not pumped every three to five years, your septic tank may become so full of solid waste that it overflows. The least damaging sign is a persistent foul odor near the tank or in your bathroom. This rotting smell may be more noticeable in hot weather.

Another common symptom is a slow-draining or frequently clogged toilet. Plunging and drain cleaners will prove ineffective if the problem is related to the septic tank and not a simple drain clog. Continued use of the toilet without cleaning the septic tank may lead to overflows and sewage damage to your home.

The third sign of a full septic tank is moist ground above the tank’s location. In extreme cases, the flooding may even include visible sewage or toilet paper. Any plants in the flooded area may become sick or die off, leaving bald patches in lawns or other aesthetic damage.

Septic Cleaning Methods

There are three basic ways to clean out your septic system, each with their own advantages and drawbacks. Be sure to check your local and state laws before attempting to empty the cesspool by yourself.

Aeration

A chemical alternative for cleaning out the cesspool, aeration involves pouring sulfuric acid into the well or tank. The acid breaks down the solid waste and sludge, allowing air to pass through. As a result, the waste is dissolved without extensive pumping. The downside to this method is that sulfuric acid is corrosive and may cause damage to your septic system if not used properly.

Hydro-Jetting

Another alternative method used in wells which may reduce or eliminate the need for pumping is to use hydro-jetting. A high-pressure blast forces water into the ground at the bottom of the cesspool, breaking up the solids. This method has the fastest recovery time when cleaning a well.

Pumping

The most common method of cleaning out a cesspool is the use of a large pumping truck. This vehicle empties out your cesspool into a large storage tank. According to CostHelper, the price for pumping generally runs between $75 and $200, but larger tanks may cost $300 or more. This estimate doesn’t include additional costs, such as excavating and refilling the ground above the tank. You may choose to excavate the manhole cover yourself or rent a backhoe for larger operations.

Pumping is considered the default method for cleaning out septic tanks and should be performed every two to four years. Some smaller tanks may require annual pumping if used heavily, while even large and seldom used tanks should be pumped at least once every five years. Note that in many states, it is illegal to pump a cesspool without proper certification.

Septic Maintenance

Although wells and tanks are slightly different, the same steps may be taken to reduce the frequency of pumping and maintain the overall health of your system.

Preventative Maintenance

One of the easiest ways to help keep your septic system functioning efficiently is to take care of what goes into it. As both wells and septic tanks rely upon bacteria to break down the waste, many substances cannot be easily broken down and may even kill off the beneficial bacteria. Some examples of these substances are:

• Household chemicals, especially ammonia or antibacterial cleansers will kill the bacteria and prevent the sewage from being broken down.
• Diapers, paper towels, and other hygiene and paper products are not designed to be flushed and may create blockages. As they aren’t designed to break down as quickly as toilet paper, these products might sit in the septic system until the next schedule pumping.
• Grease solidifies as it cools and has adhesive qualities. Not only will hair and other debris stick to it, the grease will also line pipe walls, building up until it creates a blockage.
• Avoid putting bone or vegetable matter in your garbage disposal. Doing so may release grease, fat, or other insoluble liquids into the septic system.
• Powdered laundry detergents incorporate an insoluble clay which may cause clogging. Therefore, use only liquid detergents when possible.

It is also important not to use too much water at once. Aim downspouts away from the septic system and avoid running multiple water-intensive appliances at once. Regardless of whether you have a well or septic tank, the waste takes time to break down and large volumes of incoming water in a short amount of time may overwhelm the limited capacity of your system.

Testing Septic Levels

Septic systems are designed to separate and store waste. As a result, they need to be cleaned out occasionally to prevent overflows or clogging. A simple test may be performed using a stick long enough to touch the bottom of your well or tank. When dipped and examined, the sludge level should be one-third or less of the tank’s height. If the stick shows a higher level, you will need to pump.

Baffle Clogs

As septic tanks include drain fields, maintenance requires additional steps. For example, the front and rear baffles on a septic tank must be kept clear of sludge to prevent a potential rupture. Common signs of damaged baffles include unusually lush vegetation or foul odors coming from the drain field.

Special Notes on Cesspool Lagoons

One less common variation of a cesspool is an above-ground cesspool lagoon. This form of septic system appears primarily in areas where the soil cannot support a drain field and municipal sewer systems aren’t available. Waste water is pumped into a shallow lagoon where sunlight and oxygen decompose the waste quickly. There are a few special steps which must be followed when caring for a cesspool lagoon.

Preventing Erosion

Erosion of the ground surrounding a lagoon is a major concern. For this reason, you should install short, hardy plants along the perimeter of the lagoon to help reduce erosion without blocking the flow of air along the surface. Trees and shrubs which lose their leaves in the autumn may also cover the lagoon and prevent proper aeration, so avoid planting them near your lagoon.

Maintenance

It may become necessary to dredge the lagoon using a backhoe if the level approaches the top embankment. In addition, shrubs growing in the lagoon clog the system and hinder the aeration process. Therefore, it’s important to remove any saplings which appear in the lagoon while they’re small, or you will eventually have to use a backhoe to protect your system.

Safety

Due to the exposed nature of cesspool lagoons, it is important to add fencing to prevent children or animals from falling in. Make the enclosure large enough to permit mowing. You will also need to annually treat your lagoon with dunks, which are available at your local county extension agency. These small disks help prevent the breeding of mosquitoes.

Additional References

The Environmental Protection Agency website contains an extensive guide to septic systems, including information on systems and government programs which help finance your system.

The El Dorado County, California website includes a detailed explanation of septic tanks, including a chart on how often you should expect to pump your tank based upon household and tank sizes.

Owning a sump pump helps to eliminate the headaches of basement flooding by providing a means to automatically remove water as it enters your home. Despite a fairly simple design, pumps may still malfunction. Failure to shut off can shorten the lifespan of your sump pump and raise your electricity bill. But just what causes a pump to keep running, and how do you fix it?

Understanding How Sump Pumps Work

Before attempting to locate the malfunction, it is important to understand how sump pumps are designed to work. There are two major types of sump pumps. While the overall functionality is the same, there are specific differences, especially in how the pumps are activated.

Sump Pans

The starting point of any sump pump is the sump pan. This is simply a lined pit, tank, or pan which collects water. The pump is placed directly into the tank and activates automatically.

Power Supply

While sump pumps are usually hardwired into your home’s electrical supply, most also have an emergency power supply. In the event a major storm knocks out power, the pump draws power from a large battery, allowing the system to perform its duty.

Pedestal Pumps

This form of pump uses a float, much like the float in your toilet tank. The motor is atop a small pedestal, and a pipe leads to the bottom of the sump tank. A rod connects the float to a power switch. As the water level rises, it lifts the float. Once the float reaches a certain height, it toggles the switch, activating your pump. Water is then drawn upwards through the pipe into another pipe or hose leading to your sewer or septic system. As the water level drops, so does the float, shutting off the motor.

Submersible Pumps

Unlike pedestal pumps, the motor on a submersible pump can be submerged. The bottom contains a filter which protects the pump’s impeller from gravel and other small debris. In many cases, submersible pumps have a hard plastic bubble surrounding their switch which functions the same as a float on pedestal pumps. Water is pulled directly through the impeller to a pipe leading to your waste system.

How Water Leaves Your Home

Once water has been pulled from the pit or sump pan through the impeller, it is forced past a check valve into a vertical pipe. This pipe may hold a gallon of water for every ten feet and is generally one point five inches in diameter. As your sump pump is located below the basement floor, these pipes may often be several feet in length before reaching either the exterior of your home or your sewer or septic system. It is common for as much as two thirds of the pumped water to remain in the pipeline once your sump pump shuts off.

Common Causes and Solutions for Shutoff Failure

Due to the relatively simple design of sump pumps, they are often inexpensive to repair. There are several possible reasons for your pump to continue running. Failing to address the problem may shorten your pump’s lifespan, requiring you to replace the entire pump.

Damaged or Absent Check Valve

Sump pumps are designed to shut off automatically when they have finished. The check valve is an important component which prevents water from returning to the pan when the pump deactivates. If your pump lacks a working check valve, anywhere from one-third to two-thirds of the pumped water will fall back into the sump pan as soon as the motor deactivates, causing it to reactivate. Common signs of a check valve problem are the visible lack of a valve or frequent stopping and restarting of the motor.

Damaged Impeller

Perhaps the most important component of a sump pump, the impeller creates suction which siphons water from the sump pan. Sand, grit and other debris can wear away the vanes, especially in pedestal pumps. Some models have metal vanes which are prone to corrosion. Due to its importance, a damaged impeller generally means the entire pump must be replaced.

Improperly-Sized Pump and/or Liner

One of the causes of a constantly running or frequently restarting pump is improper sizing. When the pan liner is too small, the pump will often empty the pan faster than it can fill, causing the motor to repeatedly stop and restart. Conversely, if the pump is too small, it will run non-stop, unable to remove the water faster than it enters the pan. In both cases, the best solution is to replace the component with one properly sized for the job.

Pump Switch is Jammed

A jammed switch may happen for a number of reasons such as clogging or tangling. Vibrations from extended use have also been known to make the unit begin to tilt, affecting the switch. In such cases, it is best to seek professional repair.

Water Table Levels

Sometimes natural groundwater may be causing your pump to work nonstop. Generally, sump pumps are placed below the basement floor to prevent flooding. In some cases, it may have been placed low enough to be affected by the local water table. If the water table level is not the temporary result of recent storms, raising the pump to a higher position that will still protect your basement is the primary solution. Adding a backup or temporary pump to your existing one will help if the table is abnormally high due to storms or outside pipeline or sewer damage.

Additional References

Home Advisor estimates the average cost of professional pump repair to be between $287 and $650.

CostHelper gives a similar estimate of $200 to $600 for replacing the basin and pump with a similar model.

How Stuff Works provides a comprehensive online guide to how sump pumps function.

Your water heater is an important part of daily life. It provides hot water for sinks and baths, and can sometimes help reduce the risk of freezing pipes. While modern water heaters are durable, they are not immune to developing leaks. These leaks may cause property damage, lead to mold, or even cause the heater to fail completely. Thankfully, it is often possible to diagnose and repair heater leaks by yourself.

Determining the Source

While it may at first seem as though your water heater is leaking, there may be other causes for puddles and moisture accumulating around the heater. By determining the source, it is possible to save both time and money as you can fix the actual cause. Be careful coming into contact with water radiating heat, as there is a risk of serious burns. The following are a few common causes of water accumulation that may be mistaken for a heater leak.

Condensation

Perhaps the most common source of water, condensation is common in basements and especially frequent during damp weather. Condensed moisture may come from the heater as well as nearby pipes and appliances. You may not see the water droplets, in which case the paper towel method is a convenient test.

Simply take a paper towel and slowly wipe it along the outer surfaces of all appliances and pipes in the vicinity being careful not to burn yourself on hot water pipes. If the paper towel becomes damp gradually as you cover a particular surface, condensation is your most likely source. Installing a dehumidifier in your basement will usually remedy the situation without any further measures.

Leaky Pipes

Another common cause of puddles, you may sometimes be able to observe the droplets forming at joints. Paper towels are again useful in determining the source. Dry the floor and place a paper towel under suspect joints. Then wipe the pipes to ensure the problem is not condensation. Come back after a few hours and check the paper towels for signs of a drip. If the towel is soaking water from the edge, then your source is elsewhere. Another sign of a leak is your paper towel suddenly becoming damper at a pipe joint instead of even dampening over a larger area.

Leaks from Other Appliances

Basement floors, especially older ones, are often slightly uneven. This leads to minor depressions where moisture pools. Basements that have a drain usually gently slope downwards to prevent flooding while maintaining the illusion of a level floor. Unfortunately, uneven floors may lead to pooling.

Place some paper towels around your heater where the puddles are forming after drying the area thoroughly. Check the towels occasionally for signs of moisture. In the event the paper towel is absorbing water from the edge and not the center, you will know the water is running along the floor from elsewhere. Lay paper towels one at a time starting near the wet edge to trace the path of water to its source.

Nearby appliances, such as a washer, may be the source of leaking water. Other times, the source could be a leaky overhead pipe where the water is following a slight depression in the floor. In the former case, your trail will end at the appliance, while in the latter; it will stop underneath the leak.

Repairing a Water Heater Leak

Once you have determined you heater is the source of the leak, there are a few steps which you must follow before starting repairs. These steps should be followed in order and with caution, as you are working with an appliance capable of causing first degree burns from direct and even possibly indirect contact with the water if the settings are on maximum.

Shutting off Power

Modern water heaters are generally gas or electric. The methods for shutting off power differ between the two.

• Electric water heaters are connected directly to the circuit breaker. Simply find the breaker associated with the heater and shut it off.
• Gas water heaters have a power switch or dial. Make sure it has been set to the off position, being careful not to close the gas shut-off valve.

Shutting off the Water Supply

Regulation requires that a shut-off be located above the water heater. This may be a pull-down switch or a gate valve. In the event you cannot reach it without coming into contact with hot water, you will need to access your home’s main water shut-off and cut the supply from there.

Addressing Leaks from the Top of the Heater

Leaks emanating from the upper portion of the water heater are usually minor and can be fixed without calling a professional.

Loose Pipe Fittings

Easily identified by a small pool of water atop the heater, the loose fitting may be either the inlet or outlet pipe. The problem may be either where the pipe connects to the heater or to other fittings. If there is no sign of corrosion or serious damage to the pipe, simply tighten with a pipe wrench.

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

Commonly referred to as the T&P valve, this fitting is located on the side of your tank and should be watertight. Water running down the side of the heater may be caused by a leaking T&P valve. Examine the threads at the base of the valve for signs of leakage or use your trusty paper towels to check for moisture. In the event the leak is coming from the threads, you will need to remove the valve to find the underlying source.

Locate a nearby hot water tap and turn it on. This will not only drain out some of the hot water, but also provide a means for air to enter the tank as you drain it. Next, run a garden hose from the drain valve near the bottom of your heater to your basement drain or sump pump. Make sure that the hose is not elevated or the tank will not drain properly. Now open the valve. You may need to use a screwdriver if there is no wheel.

Once the water has drained below the valve level, remove the latter with a pair of channel locks. There should be no corrosion or rust inside the opening, which is a sign that the heater must be replaced. Wrap the valve’s threads with some Teflon tape and reattach for a tighter fit.

Addressing Leaks from the Bottom of the Heater

It is more common for leaks to occur from the bottom of the tank. Unfortunately, these leaks are also more serious and usually require professional repair or even replacement of the entire tank. There are three major causes of lower tank leaks.

Drain Valve

Used for regular maintenance, the drain valve at the bottom of your tank may develop a leak. Moisture may form around the edges if the valve is no longer water-tight. It is also possible that the valve is faulty. In both cases, you can replace the drain valve yourself by following the instructions included with the new drain valve.

Tank Leak

The most frequent cause of a leak is damage to the tank itself. If not properly maintained, sediment can build up, causing the tank to crack or rust. In some cases, an internal component is leaking. Replacing the tank is necessary in both cases.

T&P Discharge Tube

The purpose of the temperature and pressure relief valve is to reduce internal pressure and vent if the water becomes too hot. A discharge tube runs from the valve to the floor for safety. Puddles beneath the tube may be a sign of a pressure issue. Roll up your paper towel and check the inside of the tube to make sure it is dry. Moisture in the tube suggests either a pressure problem or faulty valve. You can replace the valve yourself, but will need to contact a professional to fix a pressure issue.

Maintaining Your Hot Water Tank

While your water heater requires very little maintenance, giving it some attention will help prevent leaks and extend its lifespan. These checks are relatively quick and may even identify a problem in its early stages. In addition to the following maintenance routines, be sure to follow any manufacturer recommendations.

60-Day Checks

Every two months, give your tank a physical to ensure it is in perfect working order. Examine all pipes and fittings for signs of leakage or corrosion. Pay attention for traces of gas in the air if you have a gas heater. Run a nearby hot water tap and listen for unusual noises, which may suggest a serious problem with your heater. Finally, make sure the T&P valve opens and closes without any issues.

Six Month Flushing

Every six months, shut off the power and water to your tank, using up hot water to cool the tank’s contents. Turn on a nearby hot water tap and run a garden hose from the drain valve to your sump pump or basement floor drain. Open the valve and allow several gallons to empty from the tank.

Next use a bucket or sieve to check some of the water for sediment. A moderate to large amount means you must repeat the process.  Once there is little or no sediment present, allow a few more gallons to drain before closing the valve and turning the water supply back on. You will know the tank has filled when the open hot water tap is releasing water at full pressure. At this point, you may turn the power supply back on.

Annual Checks

Once your tank is approximately three years old, you will need to perform an annual check of the anode rod. This rod is generally located near the cold water inlet at the top of the heater, and has an average lifespan of four to six years. Simply remove the rod and check for significant pitting or chipping. Minor corrosion or pits are normal, but more extensive damage indicates you should replace the rod.

When is a Professional Necessary?

Many sources of leakage are easily repaired, but some require professional attention. Signs of corrosion, rust, or an internal leak are sure signs that the tank needs replaced. You may also need to contact a professional if you are unable to locate the cause of the leak or your tank continues to leak after you have attempted to repair the problem.

Additional Resources

As of April 16, 2015, all water heater manufacturers must follow NAECA (National Appliance Energy Conservation Act) standards as amended in the Department of Energy’s 2010 ruling. The Appliance Standards Awareness Project offers information and related documents on this ruling and how it affects new water heaters.

The Department of Energy offers a detailed guide on selecting a new water heater, including solar and geothermal tanks.

In the event you need to replace your tank, CostHelper provides cost averages for various types of water heater and professional installation fees.