Yard

A well-fed lawn not only looks better, but also stands up to drought, insects, foot traffic, and other stress better. Your lawn needs both the right fertilizer and the right fertilization schedule to help it make the most of good growing weather and survive dormancy.

Most lawns benefit from fertilization two to four times a year, but how often you’ll need to feed your lawn depends on your grass type, climate, and how much time you want to invest.

Nutrition for New Grass

Whether it’s seeded, sodded, or sprigged over a whole lawn or a small bare spot, new grass benefits from extra nutrients. For good quality soil, adding an inch or two of compost might be all you need to do.

If your soil is less than ideal, apply starter fertilizer. This fertilizer is specially formulated for new lawns and contains higher levels of nutrients, phosphorous in particular, to help seeds sprout and seedlings grow strong, deep roots. Many also contain quick-release nitrogen to promote seed germination.

Before planting, apply the fertilizer with a lawn spreader, but don’t rake it in. The fertilizer should go no deeper than 4 inches to prevent damage to the grass’ roots. Wait until after the third mowing to fertilize again.  

The Right Feeding Schedule for Your Grass Type

Overfertilizing promotes excess leaf growth at the expense of root growth, or worse, creates an unhealthy pH and nutrient balance, and a harmful buildup of salts. Before you decide on your fertilization schedule, read your fertilizer’s label to find out how long it’s formulated to last. Some time-released formulas continuously release nutrients for as long as 12 months, and reapplying to soon leads to over fertilization.

In general, plan to fertilize two to four times or around once every six to eight weeks, applying the bulk of the lawn’s yearly fertilizer during its most active growth period. Your grass’ active growth period depends on whether it’s a cool-season species, such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue, or a warm-season species, such as Bermudagrass or St. Augustine grass.

Spring and fall are the active growing times for cool-season grasses, so that’s when you’ll want to provide most of the year’s fertilizer. In summer, when growth is slower, these grasses need little to no feeding. Warm-season grasses are most active in summer, so they need most of their nutrition between late spring to early fall. Because they slow down once the weather cools, they don’t benefit from late-fall fertilization.

If you live in the grass transitional zone, your lawn might have a combination of warm- and cool-season grasses that will need a compromise between the two schedules. Regardless of your grass species, avoid fertilizing when the lawn is dormant. Doing that only helps the weeds.

Fertilizing Across the Seasons

Both the weather and your climate affect your lawn’s need for nutrients.

Spring

Both cool- and warm-season grasses are active in spring, and fertilizing gives them the nutrients they need to grow. Cool-season grasses can be fertilized when the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees. In most parts of the country, that’s around mid-April. It’s also when the grass first starts growing, and the lilacs start blooming.

To time it more accurately, use a soil thermometer. If you plan to use a weed-and-feed product, apply it shortly before the soil reaches 55 degrees to head off weed growth.

While cool-season grasses can be fed earlier in spring than their warm-season cousins, avoid feeding them too early. You’ll encourage leaf growth instead of root growth, which makes for an overall weaker lawn. It’s all right to delay fertilization for awhile after a long, hard winter.

In fact, if you fertilized late in the previous fall, you don’t need to worry about fertilizing again until late spring. To further reduce the risk of excess leaf growth, choose slow-release fertilizers.

Fertilize warm-season grass once it’s been growing long enough to need mowing, which is usually when the soil temperature has been at around 65 degrees for several weeks. If you live in a warm climate with no winter dormancy period, fertilize in April. Feeding too early in spring promotes growth before the grass is ready for it.

If needed, fertilize again in late spring between April and June or six to eight weeks after the early spring feeding. If you plan to overseed, avoid weed-and-feed products for four weeks before overseeding. After overseeding, wait until the third mowing to fertilize.

Summer

Good fertilization helps grass survive the heat, drought, and foot traffic of summer. Cool-season grasses naturally slow their growth in warmer weather, so don’t fertilize during the hottest part of the summer. Wait until late summer or early fall when the weather is starting to cool off, then apply a slow-release fertilizer with moderate nitrogen content.

The exceptions are cool-season grasses in cool-summer climates, such as the Pacific Northwest, parts of the Northeast, and some high elevation areas. It’s safe to feed these lawns in summer, but apply less fertilizer than you have planned for the end of the season.

For warm-season grasses, summer is the most important feeding time. Apply fertilizer once between June and August, around six to eight weeks after the late spring feeding. Then fertilize every six to eight weeks, making the last application four weeks before the first frost. Make the last application of nitrogen fertilizer no later than eight weeks before the first frost.

For the final summer feeding, consider an organic fertilizer such as compost or manure. Alternatively, if your soil tests low in potassium, your grass might benefit from a low-nitrogen potash fertilizer.

Fall

Cool-season grasses do much of their growing in fall, so they need good nutrition then. In cold-winter climates, late autumn feeding helps the grass recover from the summer heat and build up the reserves it needs to come back strong in spring after winter dormancy. In milder climates, where cool-season grasses stay green all winter, fall feeding keeps the grass healthy through this season.

In late fall, six to eight weeks after the late summer or early fall feeding, apply a winterizing fertilizer. Do this when the grass is still green, but has stopped growing, which usually happens when air temperatures are in the mid-50s. Formulated to help grass prepare for the cold season, winterizing fertilizers are high in phosphorous and potassium, which promote root growth, but lower in nitrogen to avoid promoting unnecessary leaf growth.

Warm-season grasses are slowing down in preparation for winter dormancy, so they don’t need extra nutrition, and winterizing fertilizer isn’t recommended. Fertilizing at this time leaves warm-season grass vulnerable to winter damage by causing it to put its energy into leaf growth when it should be storing energy for winter.

Once you understand your grass species’ seasonal growth pattern, you can give it the right nutrition when it needs it most. Well-planned fertilization like this keeps your lawn lush and green during the growing season and protects it from damage during dormancy.

How you water is one of the most important factors affecting your lawn’s health. It might be tempting to error on the side of overwatering, but that only leaves your lawn vulnerable to disease, fungus, and soil compaction, and leads to a weak root system.

There are no hard-and-fast rules to lawn watering, but understanding your grass type, soil type, and climate will help you find the schedule that works best for your lawn.

How Often Do You Really Need to Water?

A new lawn, whether seeded or sodded, needs attentive watering to give it the best chance of survival. Aim to keep the top 1 inch of soil consistently moist but not soggy, which usually requires misting twice a day. Once the seeds germinate, keep the top 2 inches of soil moist until the new grass reaches a height of at least 3 inches. After that, water as needed.

Once established and healthy, a lawn doesn’t necessarily need anything more than rainfall. Turfgrass is tough. Many species can survive up to four weeks without water by going dormant. They’ll turn brown, but green up again when the rain returns. Species popular in hot, dry climates are particularly well adapted to periods of drought. After a month with no rain, though, even these grasses need irrigation to survive.

That said, most lawn grasses grow best when the top 6 to 8 inches of soil is moist. On average, to maintain that moisture level, a lawn needs at least 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week, either from rain or irrigation. One to three watering sessions a week is ideal. Avoid frequent, shallow watering, which discourages the lawn from building the deep root system it needs to survive hot weather.

In climates where air temperatures don’t fall below freezing, lawns need the same amount of water in winter. Too little water during the cold season stresses the grass and increases the risk of damage.

This amount is just a guideline, though. Your grass species, condition, soil, and weather conditions also affect your lawn’s watering needs. Cool-season grasses, particularly fescues, need extra watering during hot periods. Taller grass holds moisture better than shorter grass. Heavy thatch buildup is hard for water to penetrate, but it holds in moisture, so the lawn will need more water than average, but less frequent watering.

Clay soils are similar. They’re slow to absorb water, but they hold water longer than sandy soils. Grass in clay soil benefits from getting its weekly water in one go. Grass in a fast-draining sandy soil benefits from more frequent watering. Grass in a sunny area or on a slope needs more water than grass in the shade or on flat ground. While it’s obvious heat dries out your lawn, don’t overlook the drying effect of wind.

Most grasses give you a sign when they need water, such as wilting or turning from green to a dull, blueish-gray. If you can walk across the grass and leave clearly visible footprints, it’s time to water. If you’re unsure, try pushing a 6-inch screwdriver into the soil. If you can’t push it all the way in with little resistance, chances are your lawn needs water.

Also, beware of overwatering. Don’t assume brown spots mean a lack of water. Fungus, insects, soil issues, and even overwatering can all leave brown patches. If you have heavy clay soil, compacted soil, or you haven’t watered in a long time, you might see water run-off before you’ve watered much at all. Aeration can solve the compaction problem, and adding soil amendments such as aged compost can lighten clay soil.

If you know your soil isn’t the issue, you might need to water more often. In the meantime, when you notice run-off, turn the sprinkler off and let the water soak in for 10 minutes, then continue watering. You might need to water in a cycle of 10 minutes on and 10 minutes off.

Setting Your Watering Schedule

Once you know how much water your lawn needs, you can choose a schedule that meets those needs. Rain gauges are the most accurate way to measure how much water you’re giving your lawn, but since most tuna cans are 1 inch high, they also make handy measuring devices.

Because sprinklers don’t always reach every part of the lawn equally, measure coverage in several areas. Place rain gauges or empty tuna cans in different parts of the lawn and time how long it takes the sprinkler to fill them with 1 inch of water. For most sprinklers, it’s around an hour.

Alternatively, let the sprinkler run for 30 minutes and check how much water it puts out. If it’s half an inch, you’ll know you need to water for an hour to give your lawn a full inch. If you’d rather not monitor your sprinkler, buy a sprinkler timer that measures water flow. Multiply your lawn’s square footage by 0.62 gallons (the amount that gives you an inch of water for each square foot) to find out how many gallons to set the sprinkler for.

If your sprinkler puts out an inch of water every 30 minutes, you can break your watering into one 30-minute session, two 15-minute sessions, or three 20-minute sessions depending on your lawn’s individual needs at the time. You’ll still need to adjust for weather conditions, watering more during hot, windy periods and cutting back during wet periods.

When possible, water before 10 a.m. when it’s cooler and less windy, which reduces evaporation and stress on the grass. If the evening is the only time you can water, try to get it done between 4 and 6 p.m. when the heat of the day has passed, but the grass still has time to dry before sundown. Grass that stays wet overnight is more vulnerable to disease and fungus. Avoid watering during the hottest part of the day, usually between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Watering 1 to 1 1/2 inches a week is a good guideline to start with, but to keep your lawn in optimal health, refine your watering plan to meet your lawn’s individual needs. The grass species, condition, location, soil type, and the current weather all affect your lawn’s water requirements. When in doubt, pay attention to wilting, color changes, and other signs to determine how often and how much to water your lawn.

If your lawn’s looking a little thin, overseeding can restore it to a thick, healthy condition in just one season. In a southern climate, it can extend your lawn’s growing season. It’s a fairly easy job, but to get good results, you’ll need to choose the right grass seed, determine the best time of year for your climate, and prepare your lawn correctly.

Overseeding for Health and Beauty

A lawn can start thinning out for a variety of reasons. Frequent foot traffic is a common one, but heat and drought damage, disease and insect damage, incorrect mowing, lack of nutrients, compacted soil, erosion, too much shade, and the wrong grass type for the climate can also cause a lawn to wear away.

Age is another issue. While grass renews itself and can live for decades, the renewal process slows down as the grass ages, and eventually, blades die off faster than the lawn can replace them.

A thin lawn not only looks bad, but also invites weeds. Overseeding, or applying new seed to an existing lawn, is a fast, easy, and inexpensive way to restore the lawn to full health. Overseeding cool-season grass on a warm-season lawn also gives the lawn color over the winter after the warm-season grass has gone dormant.

When to Overseed

How often to overseed depends partly on your grass type. Sod-forming grasses, such as bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon), zoysiagrass (Zoysia sp.), Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis ), bentgrasses (Agrostis spp.), and Chewing’s red fescue (Festuca rubra ssp. commutata) use rhizomes, stolons, or tillers to spread laterally, so they can fill in thin spots fairly easily. These only need overseeding when noticeably thin spots appear, which might be every three or four years or even less often.

Bunch-type grasses, such as most types of tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) and perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne), don’t spread well, so thin areas can quickly turn into bare spots that won’t clear up on their own. These grasses benefit from annual overseeding to prevent thin spots from developing.

The best time to overseed cool-season grasses in the north is late summer or early fall when daytime air temperatures have cooled off for the year, but will stay above 55 degrees for the next several months. This time of year means less threat from weeds. Spring is the next best time.

In the south, overseed in mid-spring or early summer when the soil temperatures are at least 65 degrees consistently. In any climate, avoid overseeding during the middle of summer when the risk of heat stress, drought, and disease is highest.

Finding the Right Seed

A variety of grass types can be used for overseeding, depending on the grass you already have and your lawn’s needs. Nurseries often sell blends of grass seed chosen to thrive in the local region. They can also update you on new cultivars that offer benefits your existing grass doesn’t. Mixing your own seed blend is also an option.

A blend of fine-blade Kentucky bluegrass and turf-type tall fescue is common for thickening cool-season lawns. Pay close attention to the cultivar and avoid overseeding fine-blade grass with a coarser cultivar that will stick out. To restore the lawn in shady areas where most grass grows poorly, consider overseeding with red fescue.

If your goal is to bring winter color to your bermudagrass or other warm-season grass, choose a species that will grow through winter, but go dormant or die before summer. This way the overseeded grass won’t compete with your existing grass.

Annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) is a popular choice. Creeping bentgrass (Agrostis stolonifera), although more expensive, also works well. Perennial ryegrass can be used in the warmest southern climates, but it stays active too long in spring to be used in areas cool enough for fescue to grow well.

Preparing Your Lawn

Preparation is critical to the success of your overseeding. For anything beyond preventing or correcting normal thinning, test the soil, and add soil amendments as needed. For soil compaction and excess thinning from foot traffic, consider installing stepping stones.

If you’re overseeding to thicken the lawn, start by cutting the grass down to two inches or less. If you want to add winter color to a dormant southern lawn, cut as low as you can. Bag the clippings. Rake the soil with a metal thatch rake to remove thatch and debris, and to loosen the soil so seeds can root more easily. If the soil is compacted, core aerate to let more air and water reach the soil.

Once the lawn is dethatched and aerated, rake in a thin layer of enriched soil to help the seeds get started. Around 1/4 inch or less is enough to give the seeds extra nutrients, but any more can smother your existing grass.

Adding the Seed

To thicken a generally thin lawn or prevent thinning, you’ll need between 1 to 4 pounds of seed per 1000 sq. ft. To repair extremely thin or completely bare spots, you’ll need up to 5 pounds per 1000 sq. ft. Different grass types have different coverage rates for overseeding, ranging from 1/3 pound to 5 pounds, so check the recommended overseeding rate for your seed before you start.

If you reseed every year, you’ll need less seed in the following years. Apply your seed with a seed spreader then immediately water it in with an inch of water.

After overseeding, keep the soil consistently moist. Start with frequent, light waterings twice a day for the first four days, then water daily. Once the grass has germinated, which can take up to two weeks, water deeply every few days. When the seedlings have reached the height of the rest of the grass, continue watering deeply every few days for a week, then water as recommended for the type of grass. Starter fertilizer can help, but avoid any product containing herbicide, which can prevent seeds from germinating.

Overseeding is a simple, affordable way to keep your lawn looking lush, but it does take some prep work. If your lawn has problems beyond normal thinning, take steps to improve the soil and prevent future excess damage before you overseed. Preparation combined with the right seed at the right time should get your lawn back into shape within weeks.

Shade can be hard on turfgrass, but it’s still possible to grow a lush lawn in the shade by choosing the right grass species and giving it care that’s appropriate for lower light conditions. Although the best grass for the shaded areas of your lawn depends on your climate and the type of light your lawn receives, there are a few shade-tolerant species that should be at the top of your list to consider.

Assess Your Conditions

No turfgrass truly loves shade, but some can tolerate it because they’re more efficient at photosynthesis than other grasses. Even the most shade-tolerant grasses require at least three to four hours of direct sunlight for part of the day, also called “partial sun,” or four to six hours of dappled sunlight every day.

Although cool-season grasses fare better in the shade overall, your climate should determine which type of grass you plant. If you live in a region where early spring and fall temperatures fall between 65 and 75 degrees, such as New England, the upper Midwest, and the Pacific Northwest, choose a cool-season grass.

Warm-season grasses are a better choice for regions with summer temperatures ranging between 75 to 95 degrees, such as the Deep South and the southwest.

If you live in the in-between region known as the grass transition zone, choose a cool-season grass for shaded areas. For a yard with a few shady spots here and there, use a seed mix that contains at least some shade-tolerant species.

Shade-Tolerant Cool-Season Grasses

Fescues (fescue spp.) – This genus of narrow-leaved, dark green grasses tolerates shade better than any other cool-season grass thanks to its extensive root system that reaches 2 to 3 feet deep. These grasses thrive in lawns that get at least four hours of partial or dappled sun a day.

The fine fescue group is the best option for shade, particularly strong creeping red fescue (Festuca rubra ssp. rubra) and Chewing’s fescue (Festuca rubra subsp. commutata). The tall fescue group is the next runner up.

Bentgrass (Agrostis spp.) – The traditional European golf green grass, bentgrass is loved for its fine texture, dense turf, and medium-dark green color. Velvet bentgrass (Agrostis canina) is the species best suited to shady areas. It thrives in the cool, wet climates of the northern U.S., especially coastal areas, but the transition zone is too warm for it.

Of the three common bentgrasses, velvet bentgrass is the lightest in color, and has the finest texture and highest density.  Because of this, it’s at risk for overwatering and overfertilizing, so learn its needs if you decide to plant it. Creeping bentgrass  (Agrostis stolonifera) is also moderately shade tolerant, but colonial bentgrass is less so.

Perennial Ryegrass (Lolium perenne) – This is a popular go-to solution for areas that get at least four hours of direct sunlight. It won’t do as well in filtered or dappled light, though. It does well in cool, coastal areas, but tolerates heat poorly and needs attentive watering.

It’s a fast grower, which means more frequent mowing, but it should be left at 3 inches during hot periods. When healthy, it forms a lush, fine-textured turf that keeps its glossy dark green color even after the first few frosts. Note that annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) isn’t as shade tolerant.

Bluegrass (Poa spp.) – This group of grasses is better known for its sun-loving varieties, but it includes a few that survive well in the shade. Roughstalk bluegrass (Poa trivialis) tolerates shade better than fine-bladed bluegrasses. The Sabre cultivar in particular can get by on four hours of partial or dappled sun daily, although direct sun is preferable.

Poorly drained, compacted soil isn’t a problem for this grass. Its light yellow-green color doesn’t blend in well with many other cool-season grasses, so it’s not common in seed mixes. If you prefer the deep blue-green of Kentucky Bluegrass (Poa pratensis), consider the Glade and BenSun cultivars, which can grow well in light shade.

Shade-Tolerant Warm-Season Grasses

St. Augustine (Stenotaphrum secundatum) – The broad, flat blades and 6-inch-deep roots of this grass that let it maintain its dark blue-green color in drought conditions also help it thrive in the shade. Although it’s the most shade tolerant of the warm-season grasses, it still needs at least five hours of partial sun a day.

The Sapphire, Palmetto, Seville, and Bitter Blue cultivars are your best bets for shaded areas. The last two cultivars also offer a richer color and finer blades than others. Floratam, the most popular cultivar, is the only one that truly needs full sun.

In addition, St. Augustine’s good salt tolerance makes it popular in coastal areas. It’s the least cold tolerant warm-season grass, though, and goes dormant when the soil temperatures fall below 55 degrees.

Zoysiagrass (Zoysia spp.) – Six hours of partial sun a day is enough for this fine-textured grass to form lush, healthy turf. Zoysia japonica is the most common species and the only one available in seed form, but it’s not the most shade tolerant. Newer cultivars of Zoysia matrella, such as Shade Tuff, Cavalier, and Diamond, handle shade better, but they still don’t like deep shade or waterlogged soil.

The key to Zoysiagrass’ renowned drought-resistance is its ability to go dormant. Under drought conditions, it enters dormancy and turns brown while other grasses wilt. As such, it’s the first to turn brown in fall and the last to green up in spring.

Centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides) – Most cultivars of this medium-textured, light yellow-green creeping grass prefer full sun, but the Oaklawn and Tennessee Hardy cultivars can get by on six hours of partial sun a day. This grass does well in sandy, acidic soils, but tolerates salt and wear poorly.

Because it doesn’t go dormant, it’s vulnerable to cold damage. It’s a slow grower that needs relatively little maintenance. The light color isn’t to everyone’s taste, but trying to deepen it with fertilizer can kill the grass.

Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum) – This grass is best known for its heat and drought tolerance, and while it prefers full sun, it tolerates limited shade better than many warm-season grasses. It’s an option if you’re in a hot climate, but your lawn gets a little dappled shade for part of the day.

Pennington Argentine Bahiagrass is the most shade-tolerant cultivar, and it’s often found in “sun and shade” seed mixes. It also produces a darker color and finer texture than the popular Pennington Pensacola cultivar. Bahiagrass often gets by on rain alone, but will wilt and turn a blue-gray shade to let you know when it needs watering.

Several types of grass can thrive in the shade, but each has its own requirements. To find the best grass for the shaded areas of your lawn, start by determining your grass zone and your property’s light conditions. Then read up on the common shade-tolerant species to find one that will thrive in the conditions you have.

Because they often blend in with your lawn, weeds that look like grass can establish themselves before you realize they’re there. At that point, they’ve been taking nutrients from your lawn for weeks, gathering the strength to fight off your control efforts. Knowing how to identify common grassy weeds lets you get the jump on them before they make themselves too comfortable.

Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua)

Annual bluegrass is a lighter, brighter green than its relative Kentucky bluegrass and produces a long ligule, or membrane, that holds the base of the leaf to the stem. When viewed from the side, the leaf tips curve up like the bow of a ship. It prefers cool, moist conditions and is likely to turn brown when summer temperatures rise.

Foramsulfuron can get rid of existing annual bluegrass, and it’s safe for some turfgrasses. Several pre-emergent herbicides, including bensulide, dithiopyr, and oryzalin, can be applied in the fall to stop annual bluegrass from coming up in spring.

Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis)

This common lawn weed is named for its distinctive horizontally spreading crab-shaped growth habit. Full grown crabgrass leaves are bright apple green with a central fold and noticeably wider than the leaves of most lawn grasses. It’s a warm-season annual that thrives in hot weather.
 
To spot treat a small crabgrass patch, thoroughly douse it with vinegar of 5 percent acidity or higher and repeat the process for several days or until the crabgrass dies.

Herbicides containing quinclorac control crabgrass without harming most turfgrasses. Some pre-emergents such as dithiopyr, prodiamine, and pendimethalin are safe to use on healthy, well established lawns. Ultimately, a thick, healthy lawn is the best defense against this weed.

Quackgrass (Elymus repens)

Also known as common crouch, quackgrass is a cool-season perennial most easily recognized by its auricles, the finger-like leaves that grasp the stems and project outward from them. The grass spreads aggressively through rhizomes and forms coarse-textured, ashy blue-green patches.

The safest way to get rid of small patches of quackgrass is to dig it up by the roots or solarize it by covering it with black plastic, such as a black bucket, for at least four weeks during the height of summer. Spot treatment with a non-selective herbicide is also an option. Keep in mind that non-selective herbicides can also kill any lawn grass they touch, so careful application is essential.

Creeping bentgrass (Agrostis palustris)

This cool-season perennial grows as a dense, fine-textured mat and spreads through stolons, forming gray-green patches that stand out as light spots in most turfgrasses. It starts to look puffy when it grows past 1 inch, but it tolerates short mowing well, making it a popular choice for golf courses. While it flourishes in cool, wet spring weather, it turns brown when temperatures heat up. Mesotrione is one of the most effective herbicides for controlling creeping bentgrass.

Nutsedge (Cyperus sp.)

Two species of this perennial weed show up in lawns: yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) and purple nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus). They favor wet areas and produce long, narrow leaves and brush-like flowers in either yellow in mid-summer or dark reddish-purple in late summer.

Dig up a clump, and among its roots you’ll find the “nutlets” that give this sedge its name. Post-emergent herbicides containing sulfosulfuron work well for controlling nutsedge, but killing off the nutlets is essential. Avoid overwatering your lawn.

Carpetgrass (Axonopus sp.)

Boggy, shady areas with acidic soils are the preferred home of both broadleaf carpetgrass (Axonopus compressus), sometimes called blanketgrass, and narrowleaf carpetgrass (Axonopus affinis). These grasses form a dense, coarse, medium-green mat that can grow up to 12 inches high. Both warm-season perennials, they turn green late in spring, send up tall, crabgrass-like seedheads in summer, then turn brown as soon as temperatures drop again.

Dousing this grass with a solution of 1/4 cup salt in 1 gallon water is often enough to kill it, but if it doesn’t, allowing the soil to dry out or applying lime to lower the soil pH might. Oryzalin is effective as a pre-emergent herbicide.

Broom sedge (Andropogon virginicus)

A warm-season perennial, this grass grows upright in narrow bunches, particularly in sunny areas of low soil fertility and low soil pH levels such as abandoned lots and near railroad tracks. It’s medium green in summer, then turns a coppery orange and stiffens in fall.

Herbicides aren’t much help here. Contrary to its name, this plant is a grass, not a true sedge, so many treatments that control it also harm turfgrass. Spot treating with vinegar or any non-selective herbicide is your best bet for small areas. In large areas, proper fertilization and liming as needed gets rid of broom sedge over several years.

Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense)

Young johnsongrass resembles corn seedlings and quickly matures to a height of up to 7 feet. Its 1/2- to 1-inch-wide leaves are marked by a white vein running down the center. From May to the first frost, this warm-season perennial produces purplish flowerhead tufts that can grow up to 1 foot long.

The simplest way to get rid of this grass is by dousing the seedlings in vinegar or digging them up and disposing of them. For larger patches, the herbicide sulfosulfuron is one of the most effective choices, and it won’t harm most turfgrasses. If you’re willing to re-seed or re-sod in spring, tilling the soil in autumn gets rid of johnsongrass by bringing the rhizomes to soil surface, where the winter cold will kill them.

Goosegrass (Eleusine indica)

This annual silvery-green grass is most easily identified by its flowerhead comprised of two to 10 finger-like strands that spread out like a goose’s foot. It grows in a spreading formation like crabgrass, but can also grow straight up to 16 inches.

Goosegrass thrives in compacted, poorly drained soil, so aerating your lawn helps discourage this weed, as can applying corn gluten meal to your lawn in spring. For chemical treatment, a combination of benefin and trifluralin works as a pre-emergent, while mesotrione is an effective post-emergent. Dithiopyr can work as both.

Foxtail (Setaria sp.)

These warm-season annual grasses are best known for the long, bottle-brush flower spikes they produce in late summer. They grow in nearly any soil conditions, forming clumps between four to 40 inches across.

The three species you might find are yellow foxtail (Setaria pumila), the smallest species with yellowish-orange flower spikes, green foxtail (Setaria viridis), a larger species with greenish-beige flower spikes, and giant foxtail (Setaria faberi), which can reach up to 7 feet and produces drooping flower spikes.

Spot-treating with vinegar works for small clumps, but for large areas, use a pre-emergent herbicide containing acetochlor or a non-selective herbicide. Alternatively, repeatedly till the weeds under in summer.

Weeds that look like grass are easy to mistake for one another, so accurate identification is an essential first step toward controlling them. Once you know what you’re dealing with, you can choose a natural control method or a chemical herbicide that will kill the grassy weeds without harming your lawn grass species.

The brown spots, loose turf, and spongy soil grubs cause can be disheartening, but it’s possible to get rid of grubs and restore your grass just by working with nature. If you’ve confirmed a grub infestation, using beneficial bacteria, the right lawn care practices, and biological insecticides can solve the problem without harming the insects you want.

For severe infestations, chemical insecticides will get the problem under control faster.

Nematodes: Front-Line Defense Against Grubs

Nematodes are microscopic worms that kill grubs by infecting them and releasing a lethal bacteria. Apply them to your lawn, and they’ll start reducing the grub population within three days, although it takes around two weeks to see the effects.

Thousands of nematode species exist, but Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Hb) is the one most often used to get rid of grubs. They’re living organisms that must be handled with care, so buy yours from a reputable nursery. Most can be applied with a watering can or adjustable sprayer that can release controlled doses.

Apply the nematodes in spring when soil temperatures are between 42 and 95 degrees. Choose a time in the early morning or evening after watering the lawn to protect the nematodes from light and heat. Water after application, then every three or four days if it doesn’t rain. Another application after two weeks will improve your results.

Apply them again in the fall before the soil temperature falls below 42 degrees. In a cold-winter climate, most nematodes won’t survive the winter, so you’ll need to reapply them the next year if you expect the grubs to be back.

Milky Spore: Grub-Targeting Bacteria

Milky spore bacteria (Paenibacillus papillae) cause a fatal condition known as milky spore disease in Japanese beetle grubs, but won’t harm other insects. While the bacteria won’t completely eliminate grubs from your lawn, they help keep the population below a harmful level. Because the bacteria reproduce only in infected grubs, they spread slowly and can take one to five years to become fully effective. Once established, they protect your lawn for up to 20 years.

You can find dormant milky spore bacteria in powder form at garden centers, but they become active only after warm Japanese beetle grubs ingest them. Because grubs are cold-blooded, the ground temperature must be warm enough to warm the grubs, ideally between 60 and 70 degrees. Early fall, when the grubs are actively feeding, is the best time to apply.

Spread the bacteria in a grid pattern, applying a teaspoon of bacteria powder every four feet in rows four feet apart. Then water the lawn with at least 1/2 inch water. One application is all you need. Some products can be used with a sprayer or spreader, but these are less common and usually require multiple applications.

Grub-Eating Birds

Robins, wrens, grosbeaks, starlings, and magpies are just a few of the beetle- and grub-hungry bird species that can help protect your lawn. To attract them, set up birdhouses and create more nesting space by planting a row of dense, twiggy shrubs or small trees and allowing some overgrowth. Nesting birds are particularly helpful because they need plenty of grubs to feed their young. A well stocked bird feeder and a birdbath with a bubbler or a fountain also help draw birds.

In a lawn with minor grub damage, birds hunting for grubs can leave small holes, but these aerate the lawn, and they’re nothing compared to the damage grubs do. In a heavily damaged lawn, birds can easily tear up patches of dead, loose turf and leave a mess, but these are patches you would have had to re-seed or re-sod anyway.

Strategic Lawn Care

Grubs thrive in moist soil, so a well irrigated lawn attracts more egg-laying beetles than a dry one. That means drought can work in your favor if your lawn is healthy and your grass is a species that can go dormant, such as a tall fescue or bluegrass.

At the height of summer, stop watering your lawn for three or four weeks, but no longer than six weeks. The dry soil will discourage adult beetles and kill existing eggs to reduce next year’s crop of grubs. The grass will go dormant and turn brown, but should revive after two weeks of normal watering. If you’re not sure if your lawn can handle this treatment, consult a landscaper first. 

For grass that isn’t drought tolerant or is too weak to tolerate stress, take steps to strengthen the roots against grub damage. Water thoroughly and infrequently to encourage deeper root growth. Beetles seek out short grass for egg laying, so raise your mower blade to at least 2.5 inches.

In early spring or fall, top dress with composted manure or a mix appropriate for your soil. If your lawn has more than 1/2 inch of thatch, dethatch and aerate before topdressing. Aerating in fall has the added benefit of cutting up grubs that are close to the soil surface for feeding at that time. Stick with natural fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers can harm beneficial bacteria and nematodes.

Soap and Neem Oil: Natural Insecticides

For a homemade insecticide to control a mild grub infestation, mix 3 tablespoons liquid soap with 1 gallon water. Pure castile soap is ideal. Never use anti-bacterial soap, which kills beneficial microorganisms. Spraying this on infested areas smothers grubs while discouraging any newly arrived beetles from laying eggs.

If you need something a little stronger, but you’re not ready for chemicals yet, consider neem oil. Oil from the neem tree is renowned for its insecticidal properties, which include repelling egg-laying beetles and inhibiting feeding and growth in grubs.

Using a 70-percent neem oil concentrate product, mix 2 tablespoons neem oil and 1/2 teaspoon liquid soap in 1 gallon warm water. The water must be warm to let the oil blend properly. Spray the mixture on the lawn using a hose-end sprayer, applying a generous amount to dead patches where the grub infestation is most severe.

Chemical Grub Control

For a more severe infestation, chemical insecticides are the quickest solution, but they come with the downside of killing beneficial insects. If you go this route, choose a product specifically labeled for grub control. Many common insecticides don’t work on grubs because they sit on the soil’s surface and never reach the grubs below.  

Carbaryl and trichlorfon are the two chemicals most commonly used to kill grubs. Both take between 10 to 14 days to start killing the grubs and are somewhat more effective when applied in late summer or early fall rather than in mid- to late fall. Water the lawn with around 1/2 inch of water before and after application, and keep the lawn well watered through the end of the warm season.

If you’ve had a grub problem in the past or you’ve noticed grub damage on neighboring lawns, consider applying a preventive such as imidacloprid or thiamethoxam. These work by killing newly hatched grubs before they can cause any damage.

Apply one of these chemicals in early summer and immediately water the product in. Because they aren’t effective outside the summer season, timing matters. Applying too early increases the risk the chemical will break down in the soil before summer. Too late, and grubs will be strong enough to withstand the chemical.

By using natural products such as nematodes, milky spore bacteria, and neem oil, you can get rid of grubs without harming the beneficial insects and microorganisms in your lawn. These aren’t quick fixes, though, so if your grub infestation is severe and causing extensive damage, consider applying a chemical insecticide.