Yard

The last few years have produced bumper crops of ticks around the country, and with them has come a rise in cases of Lyme disease and other tick-borne illnesses. Taking steps to get rid of ticks in your yard gives you a safer, more comfortable place to relax outdoors, and you don’t have to drown your lawn in pesticides to do it.

Landscaping for a Tick-Repellent Yard

Ticks love cool, damp, shaded environments. Tall grass shades the ground and creates ideal conditions for ticks. To make your lawn less inviting for them, keep the grass cut to the lowest height healthy for its species. Mow when the grass is 1/3 longer than the height you want. If you want your lawn at 2 1/2 inches, mow when it reaches 3 1/4 inches.

Most lawns need mowing every seven to 10 days. Try not to leave more than 14 days between mowings or let the grass grow past 5 or 6 inches. If you need to mow overgrown grass, use a bagging attachment or rake up the clippings. Dense grass clippings are the perfect breeding grounds for ticks.

Trim down tall brush around your house and the edge of your yard, and cut back low-hanging branches that sweep the ground. Overhead branches aren’t a concern because, contrary to the old wive’s tale, ticks rarely climb and fall from trees.

If you grow a dense ground cover such as English ivy, pachysandra or periwinkle, keep it well contained or replace it. Pachysandra in particular is a magnet for ticks. Also, consider replacing any barberry or honeysuckle bushes. Both are known to attract ticks.

Good alternatives include airy plants, such as violas or pansies, or ground covers with reputed insect-repellent properties, such as sweet woodruff (Galium) or pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium). Chrysanthemums, which contain natural insecticides known as pyrethrins, are another good choice. For a bed of specimen plants, mulch with gravel, pebbles, or lava rock.

In early spring, clean up your yard thoroughly to make it less appealing to ticks looking for a breeding ground. Then every two weeks throughout the warm season, go through and remove any debris that could attract ticks. Pick up fallen tree limbs and rake up leaf litter, then dispose of them according to your area’s yard waste disposal regulations.

Collect fallen fruits, seeds, and nuts, which attract tick-carrying wildlife. Remove old soft patio furniture, toys, and other debris that could harbor ticks. Stack firewood neatly in an open-sided shed or lean-to. Remove stone piles, which form cool, damp places ticks love.

You might enjoy spotting wildlife on your lawn, but many of those cute critters bring ticks along with them. Building a fence to keep out deer, rabbits, raccoons, and other tick-bearing animals helps reduce your yard’s tick population. It doesn’t have to be wood or chain link. A natural fence of boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) or American holly (Ilex opaca) discourages deer and rabbits.

Where deer are a problem, choose plants they dislike, such as foxgloves (Digitalis), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), poppies (Papaver orientale), and fragrant culinary herbs. Secure trash in a closed container to avoid attracting raccoons and mice. Place your squirrel feeder away from your lawn.

While some ground-feeding birds carry ticks, birds eat more ticks than they bring. Scattering bird seed on the lawn to draw wild birds is one possible method of tick control. Bird seed can attract mice, though, so this method is best avoided where mice are common. To sterilize the seed so it doesn’t sprout weeds, spread it on a baking sheet and bake it at 300 degrees for 10 minutes.

Some poultry birds are even more effective at tick control. Chickens can do the job, but guinea fowl and Muscovy ducks are ideal. These birds have a seemingly endless appetite for ticks and are commonly used for natural tick control.

Lawns bordering woodland areas and dense flower gardens are more prone to ticks, but you can discourage the bugs from migrating by building a 3-foot-wide barrier of wood chips or gravel around the perimeter of your yard. If you opt for wood chips, use the undyed variety. Dyed wood chips hold more moisture, which can attract ticks.

As much as possible, move your garden furniture and kid’s play equipment away from any wooded or overgrown areas that border your lawn. Place these in open, sunny spaces on beds of wood chips, gravel, or rubber tiles.

Because ticks love moisture, avoid overwatering your lawn. Water as much as needed for healthy grass and plants, but keep an eye out for puddling, erosion, and other signs of poor drainage that can attract ticks.

Choosing a Safe Insecticide

If you’re dealing with severe or persistent tick infestations, insecticides can help. Neem oil, a natural plant oil, can control ticks without harming beneficial insects. To use, mix 2 to 4 tablespoons neem oil in 1 gallon water and use a sprayer to apply it at the rate of 1 gallon per 400 sq. ft.

For smaller lawns, commercial premixed insecticide solutions formulated for tick control are even easier to use. These often come in a sprayer or a container that attaches to a garden hose, so there’s no mixing, pouring, or other handling needed.  

For large lawns, it’s often more economical to buy an insecticidal chemical and mix it yourself. Spraying with permethrin is one of the most popular and effective ways to get rid of ticks, and it’s generally safe for people and wildlife. It’s harmful to saltwater fish, however, so check your local regulations before you use it. Cats are also sensitive to this pesticide, so use extra caution if cats visit your yard.

Bifenthrin (Talstar) is another common choice, and while it’s less toxic to cats, it’s somewhat toxic to dogs and birds, and highly toxic to aquatic animals. Overall, both are considered safe for residential use if applied properly. That includes not letting people or pets walk on the lawn until the pesticide is dry. If you’re unsure, consider having a pest control professional spray your property.

Late spring, when ticks are in the early nymphal stage, is the best time to spray. Once in May or early June is usually enough, but more stubborn infestations might require another spray in late summer. Spraying the yard’s perimeter can take care of minor infestations, but for more serious issues, spray the entire yard. Ticks tend to congregate around sheds, fences, and walls, so treat these areas, too.

Throughout the season, use a pet-safe tick repellent to treat your pet’s favorite hangouts in the yard. Besides dog runs or kennels, popular spots include spaces under steps, porches, and low-hanging branches, as well as along fences and walls.

Tick tubes are another way to control the tick population and reduce the spread of Lyme disease. These small cardboard tubes are stuffed with permethrin-soaked cotton. Place them around your yard anywhere mice might pass by, such as under the deck or near the house’s foundation. Mice will take the cotton back to their nests where the permethrin kills or at least repels ticks without harming the mice. Ticks commonly pick up Borrelia burgdorferi, the bacteria that cause Lyme disease, from white-footed mice, so preventing the ticks’ contact with mice protects your family’s health.  

Sometimes all you need to get rid of the ticks in your yard is a little extra maintenance and landscaping. Cut overgrown grass and brush, tidy up debris and woodpiles, build a fence or mulch barrier around your lawn, and consider replacing any tick-magnet plants. If ticks have been a serious problem, treat your lawn with the insecticide that’s safest for your family and pets, and you could have a nearly tick-free lawn in days.

Thick, scraggly patches of crabgrass are an unpleasant sight, but a frustratingly common one in lawns around the country. While getting rid of crabgrass takes some effort, it usually doesn’t require extreme measures. Once you eliminate existing plants through natural methods or herbicides, prevention is just a matter of good lawn care and vigilance.

How Crabgrass Thrives

Knowing how crabgrass grows helps you plan your attack. One of the reasons this grass is so successful is its low, crab-like growth pattern consisting of a central clump with stems radiating out from the center like crab legs. This growth pattern allows it to quickly take over any thin or bare spots in your lawn.

A native of warm climates, it thrives in hot, dry conditions where most lawn grass species struggle. Worse yet, through a process known as allelopathy, crabgrass produces its own herbicides that weaken nearby plants. It’s an annual, so each individual plant dies in fall, but before it fades away, a plant can produce as many as 150,000 seeds for new plants the following spring. Those that don’t sprout the next spring can lay dormant for years waiting to exploit a moment of weakness in your lawn.

Large crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) and smooth crabgrass (Digitaria ischaemum) are the most common crabgrass species found in the U.S., but most species in the Digitaria genus respond to the same types of treatment.

Get Rid of Crabgrass This Year

In spring, when the crabgrass plants are still small, pulling them out is the most effective way to get a minor crabgrass problem under control. Water the lawn first to soften the soil. Dispose of the plants far from your lawn. Leaving them on the lawn, dumping them in the compost, or turning them into mulch gives lingering seeds a chance to re-infiltrate your lawn. If you want to compost the plants, leave them in a closed bag in a hot, sunny place for at least four weeks to kill any seeds.

Older plants might be too well established to pull, but you can smother them by covering them with cinder blocks or other objects that completely block sunlight. After four to six weeks, the crabgrass will be dead and easy to remove. Pouring boiling hot water is a faster natural way to get rid of individual crabgrass plants, but you’ll need to cover a 3-foot radius around the plant to kill the roots, and this will kill any grass or other plants around the crabgrass.

For larger crabgrass infestations, herbicides are a more practical option. If you want to keep things natural, try vinegar with an acidity of 5 percent or higher, or an organic herbicidal soap. Spray each crabgrass clump until it’s soaked and repeat one to three times a day until the plant dies, which could take several weeks. Just remember these treatments can kill any other plants they touch, including turf grass.

If you’d rather go with a commercial herbicide, choose a selective, post-emergent herbicidal product specially formulated to kill crabgrass. Before you buy, read the label carefully to find out exactly what types of grass the product kills and what types it won’t harm.

Quinclorac is one of the best herbicides for getting rid of crabgrass without harming most turf grass species, but it isn’t safe for St. Augustine grass. Another effective option, Mesotrione, is generally safe for St. Augustine, but not for Zoysia grass. After treatment, let the crabgrass die, remove it, then reseed or re-sod the bare spot.

If your crabgrass problem is so extensive it engulfs 40 percent of your lawn or more, it might be time for soil solarization. This method kills both the crabgrass and your lawn, but it lets you start over with weed-free soil.

During the hottest part of the summer, mow the lawn as short as possible. Water thoroughly, then cover the lawn with sheets of clear, UV-resistant plastic of 1.5 to 2 mm thick. Seal the edges by weighing them down with soil. The plastic will heat the ground enough to kill all the seeds under it, usually within four to six weeks or up to eight weeks in milder weather. You can then reseed immediately afterward.

Keep it from Coming Back

Preventives known as pre-emergent herbicides are available to stop crabgrass seeds from germinating in spring. While most are harmless to established turf grass, take care to choose a product that’s labeled as safe for your grass species.

While corn gluten is moderately effective at suppressing spring crabgrass germination, you’ll need to apply it at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. to see much effect. Because of the product’s high nitrogen content, applying this much is prohibited by law in some areas. Check your local fertilizer and lawn care regulations before you use it. Overall, commercial pre-emergent herbicides are more effective and safer.

Crabgrass starts growing when the soil reaches 55 degrees for three to 10 days in a row, depending on exactly how warm the soil gets. Apply your preventive too early, and the effect won’t last to the end of the season. Then you’ll have crabgrass popping up in the middle of summer. Act too late, though, and the weeds will be so well established the chemicals won’t bother them.

In the north, the time to apply pre-emergent herbicides is approximately the same time the forsythia blooms start falling, but this is an imprecise guide at best. Use a soil thermometer to time the application correctly.

Follow the product directions carefully. Some products require an application in early spring and in late spring. Because pre-emergent herbicides also inhibit turf grass from germinating, wait at least 60 days and two mowings before you overseed your lawn again.

Once the crabgrass is gone, keeping your lawn healthy and dense is the best way to prevent the weeds from coming back. Lack of care weakens your lawn and gives the competitive edge to weeds that have adapted to growing in adverse conditions. In a healthy lawn, crabgrass has few opportunities to take hold.

Start by setting your mower blade to the highest setting in the range recommended for your grass species. Cutting higher lets the lawn fill out, leaving fewer spots for crabgrass to grow. In spring, taller grass shades the soil, protecting your lawn’s roots, but depriving crabgrass seeds of the sun they need to germinate. If you don’t know your grass species, choose one of the two highest settings, and never cut shorter than 2 1/2 inches.

Start watering in spring before the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees. This gives your lawn a chance to start actively growing before the crabgrass germinates, so it can more easily compete with the weed. Water infrequently, but to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This encourages your grass to grow deep roots that can carry it through hot, dry periods.

Crabgrass roots are relatively shallow by nature, and although the plant tolerates heat and drought well, it struggles to compete with turf grass that’s grown deep roots.

Fertilize well in spring, but first use a soil test kit to determine at least the soil pH and, ideally, the buffer pH and mineral levels. This information helps you decide how much of which fertilizers to apply, so you don’t do more harm than good. To encourage dense growth, overseed your lawn in the fall if you’re in the north or in spring if you’re in the south. Proper mulching, dethatching, and aeration also help.

Weeding and the right herbicide are often enough to get rid of the crabgrass in your lawn for one year, but keeping it gone for good requires on-going attentive lawn care. To be sure you’re using the best crabgrass control methods for your region and lawn type, talk with a landscaper or expert at a garden supply store.

Polymeric sand can help you achieve a uniform, weed-free patio, driveway or walkway, but it takes some know-how to get long-lasting results. Before you buy, find out where this sand works best, how to chose a quality product, and how to apply it for optimal results.

Beautiful, Durable Paver Joints

Created by Techniseal in 1999, polymeric sand is the modern alternative to the common mason sand traditionally used to fill spaces between pavers on dry laid surfaces. Whereas mason sand remains loose and is prone to washing out, polymeric sand contains binders that allow it to solidify and create a barrier against weeds and insects.

Most polymeric sand mixtures are based on silica sand, making them more like beach sand than mason sand, which is based on crushed stones such as granite and limestone. Some polymeric sands also contain Portland cement mixture.

The secret ingredient, however, is the proprietary polymer. A polymer is a chemical compound made of large molecules connected in repeating chains by chemical bonding. Polyethylene and natural rubber are two examples. Polymeric sand manufacturers add their own polymer to their sand, and when  activated with water, the polymer acts like a glue, allowing the sand to bond into a semi-solid matrix within the paver joints.

As a side benefit, this sand comes in a wider range of colors than mason sand. Create a uniform look with a color that matches your pavers or choose a contrasting color for something more striking.

There are a few downsides, though. If you live in a climate prone to frost heave and need to reinstall your pavers frequently, polymeric sand could be more trouble than it’s worth. While the sand has some give, it can crack during extreme freeze and thaw cycles. Because the sand hardens onto the pavers, you’ll need to scrape it off before you can reinstall any displaced pavers.

Polymeric sand works well for sandstone, bluestone, and other common pavers, as well as for brick, but it’s not always ideal for irregular stones due to the risk of water seeping under the stones. The sand is meant for narrow joints, typically not wider than 2 inches, depending on the brand.

On surfaces with wide joints, such as some flagstone walkways, it won’t set correctly. Staining during application is also a risk, but you can largely avoid this problem by carefully brushing the sand off your pavers before you apply water to activate it.

Polymeric sand costs around three times the price of mason sand and still requires some maintenance. Every rain softens the polymer and washes away a small amount of it. When too little polymer remains to hold the sand in place, the sand starts to wash away just as mason sand does.

In theory, an application of polymeric sand can last up to 10 years, but most are effective for around five years. You might start seeing weeds poke through as early as the second year. Any weed that does pop up should be removed immediately to prevent it from ruining the whole joint.

Choosing the Right Sand for You

A higher quality polymeric sand prevents weed growth and insect infestations more effectively and for a longer time. Higher quality products contain finer sand that’s better able to fill in tiny holes and cracks between the pavers. More importantly, they contain a polymer that forms a strong chemical bond.

Polymeric sands with added Portland cement also tend to form a harder, more watertight, and more durable seal. Too much cement in the mix, however, leaves the joint vulnerable to cracking.

Expect to pay a minimum of around $30 for a 50-pound bag of budget polymeric sand or around $60 for something with a stronger polymer. The highest quality sands can run over $200 per 50-pound bag.

Getting the Most from Your Polymeric Sand

Because the exact composition and polymer type varies between manufacturers, proper application methods also vary. Correct application is essential if you expect the sand to do its job and last for the long term, so read the instructions carefully before you start work.

Plan the job for a two- or three-day period of warm, dry weather. The sand needs time to set, and if it is hit with heavy rain too early in the process, you’ll end up with a muddy mess. The pavers should be completely dry when you start.
   
To apply the sand, pour it out onto the pavers, then use a coarse-bristled push broom to sweep the sand into the joints, working back and forth and applying pressure to ensure each joint is filled completely.

Next, compact the sand to remove air pockets that could interfere with the joint’s performance and reduce its lifespan. The ideal tool for the job is a rolling compactor or plate compactor with a neoprene pad, but if you don’t have either, a 2×4 board and a rubber mallet or hammer also work. Lay the board over several pavers and firmly tap it with the mallet, moving down the length of the board to vibrate the sand into the joints. Work over the entire paved area this way.

Remove excess sand with a leaf blower on the lowest setting held at an angle to avoid blowing sand out of the joints. Aim to get the surface of the pavers clean to prevent staining. The sand should sit around 1/10th inch below the top of the paver or even with the lower edge of the bevel.

Activate the sand by lightly showering the pavers with water according to the manufacturer’s directions. Most sands require enough water to saturate the sand just until the water stops soaking into the joint. The right amount of water is critical. Too much and you’ll wash the sand away. Too little and you’ll only partly activate the polymer, leaving the sand weakly bonded and likely to crack or wash out. Let the pavers sit undisturbed for at least 24 hours and don’t drive on them for at least 48 hours.

By holding off weed growth and insect damage, polymeric sand can give you a pristine patio with a lot less effort compared to traditional mason sand. If you don’t often need to reposition your pavers and don’t mind investing a little more cash and effort upfront, this modern joint filler is worth considering for the long-term benefits.

Your brown, wilted lawn might look hopeless, but don’t write it off as a loss just yet. While it’s not possible to revive completely dead grass, you can bring back grass that’s turned brown for other reasons. With the right approach, you could have a lush, green lawn again within a month.

Dead or Dormant?

If your entire lawn is an even brown color, chances are it’s just dormant, not dead. Dormancy is a normal process, something like hibernation, during which the grass “goes to sleep” to conserve water and nutrients in times of scarcity. Cool-season grasses go dormant during long periods of heat and drought, while warm-season grasses go dormant over the winter when temperatures regularly fall below freezing.

Grass can stay dormant between four to six weeks without becoming permanently damaged. After this point, however, around a quarter of the grass will die off every week.

To find out whether your grass is dead or dormant, grab a section of grass and tug gently. If the grass comes out of the soil by the roots with almost no resistance, it’s almost certainly dead. If it holds onto the soil, it’s probably just dormant.

If a few defined patches of your lawn have turned brown, but the grass there passes the tug test, that grass can usually be revived once you find out what damaged it.  

Why Lawns Turn Brown

The right way to revive a brown lawn depends on the reason it turned brown in the first place. Taking the wrong approach can do more harm than good, so before you start treating your lawn, consider all the possible reasons it might look so lifeless.

Improper Watering

Turf grass thrives on regular, but not overly frequent, deep watering. If you’ve been watering your lawn less than once a week, lack of water is the most likely reason it’s turned brown. Your lawn needs around 1 inch of water per week. In climates where temperatures rarely fall below freezing, you’ll also need to water in winter if rain is scarce.

On the other hand, if you’ve been watering every day but giving the lawn less than an inch of water each time, that could be the source of your trouble. Frequent, shallow watering creates weak roots that are easily damaged by hot weather. Overwatering, too, can damage a lawn. In this case, you’ll notice brown patches turning up all over the lawn.

Excess Thatch

Spots of brown grass around your lawn can indicate a thatch problem. Thatch is the brown, spongy layer of decomposed plant matter that builds up between the living green grass and the soil. A healthy lawn has around 1/2 to 3/4 inch of thatch, which keeps the grass’ roots cooler and helps them retain moisture.

When it builds up, though, thatch can start to smother the living grass. This problem usually only occurs in lawns that haven’t been aerated in several years. To check your lawn’s thatch level, dig out a small section of grass around 3 inches deep and measure the thatch in cross section.

Overzealous Mowing

Mowing your lawn too short stresses the grass. While keeping it at 2 1/2 inches is fine during the cooler parts of the year, 3 inches is safer in summer. When you mow, remove no more than one third of the lawn’s height at a time. Mow regularly so you won’t be tempted to cut too much at once.  

Insect and Fungal Damage

Pests and fungus cause brown or discolored patches and are often a side effect of overwatering. Grubs are the most common pest. In patches of grass killed by grubs, the grass can be pulled out easily, and you’ll find tiny, white curved grubs in the soil. Fungal damage often shows up in the form of streaky or misshapen grass leaves. Damaged patches of grass might be brown, yellow, white, reddish, or purplish.

Chemical Damage

Over-fertilizing causes a buildup of salts in the soil, which dries out the soil and the grass’ roots. The result is “fertilizer burn” and a brown lawn. Similarly, grass near a street or sidewalk can pick up a harmful amount of de-icing salt after the snow melts. Pets are another potential cause of chemical damage. Because urine is high in nitrogen, a dog or cat frequently urinating in one place damages the lawn with excess nitrogen.

In milder cases, when the grass is a yellowish-brown, a deep watering will dilute the salts or nitrogen so the lawn can recover. If the grass has turned completely dry and brown, though, it’s probably dead, and you’ll need to reseed or resod.

Reviving Your Lifeless Lawn

If your lawn has gone dormant due to drought, you’ll need plenty of water to bring it back, but most lawns come out of dormancy after three to four weeks of regular watering. If you’ve been overwatering, drop back to a healthier watering schedule.

Water two or three times per week, providing 1 inch of water each time or until the soil is wet 6 to 8 inches down. This usually means leaving the sprinkler on for 15 to 20 minutes. A rain gauge makes measuring easy, but as a rule, after watering, you should be able to push a spade or screwdriver 6 inches into the soil with little resistance.

Aim to water between six and 10 o’clock in the morning, when temperatures are milder. Between four and six o’clock in the evening is the next best time.

Once you start watering regularly, get rid of the weeds. These draw moisture and nutrients away from the grass.

If your lawn has more than half an inch of thatch buildup, dethatching will help revive the lawn by allowing more water and air to reach the roots. Early spring or early fall is the best time to dethatch cool-season grasses, while for warm-season grasses, late spring through early summer is best. A thatch rake works well for detaching small areas, but for large areas, consider renting a vertical mower.

Next, aerate the lawn to loosen roots that have been compacted by foot traffic. Aerating helps the roots absorb more nutrition and supports beneficial soil bacteria. A push lawn aerator is ideal for this, but spiked aerator sandals are also an option. Beyond this work, keep foot traffic to a minimum to avoid damaging the dormant grass’ roots.

At this point, if your lawn has a pest infestation or fungal infection, apply the appropriate pesticide or fungicide. It’s often best to start with a gentle, natural treatment such as neem oil and only move on to stronger products if you see no results.

When green grass reappears, topdressing the lawn will give it some nutrients to grown on. Topdressing warm-season grasses is recommended in early to mid-summer and cool-season grasses in the fall. Spread around 1/2 inch of topdressing over the lawn, leaving the grass tips exposed, smooth it out with a rake, then water the lawn.

When the new grass blades reach around 4 inches, it’s safe to mow the lawn down to 3 inches. Longer grass holds moisture better, helping it survive the summer heat. Avoid the temptation to mow the brown grass away. Letting the new grass grow to cover it is healthier for your lawn.

Even after most of your lawn has come back healthy and green, you might find some spots are still brown. These spots are most likely dead and should be replaced. Reseeding is the easiest way to replace the grass on a few small dead spots, but for large areas, resodding is more efficient.

Although there’s no reviving truly dead grass, as long as your grass still has some life in it, there’s a good chance you can restore it to health. Start by determining why the grass is in poor condition, then provide the watering and other care it needs to counteract what went wrong.

If you’re looking for an eye-catching species to use as a border, lawn alternative, or specimen plant, mondo grass is an excellent candidate. Also known as monkey grass or lilyturf, this plant’s lush profusion of grass-like leaves, as well as its graceful flowers and colorful berries make it popular for a variety of uses.

Easy to propagate and tolerant of a wide range of conditions, it’s a good choice for beginning gardeners. There are several types of mondo grass, so before you buy, spend some time getting to know which one will give you the results you want.  

Mondo Grass Basics

The term “mondo grass” refers to several species of evergreen perennial groundcovers native to Southeast Asia. Although they look like grasses, they’re actually members of the lily family (Liliaceae) or, in some more recent classifications, members of the asparagus family (Asparagaceae). The plant grows in clumps and spreads by sending out underground stolons (runners) and rhizomes (tuberous roots), but you can also propagate it by division.

Mondo grass (Ophiopogon genus) is often confused with Liriope (Liriope genus) because plants in the two groups are so similar in appearance and growth habits. The common names “monkey grass” and “lilyturf” are used for plants in both genera. To make sure you get the plant you want, always check the Latin botanical name. Three types of mondo grass are commonly available.

Mondo grass (Ophiopogon Japonicus) – The standard and most common mondo grass variety, this plant averages around 6 to 10 inches high and can reach 15 inches across. In summer, stalks of tiny, bell-shaped lavender flowers rise from its deep green leaves and produce a faint, sweet scent. The flowers are followed by cobalt blue berries. This plant does well in USDA zones 7 to 10 and is cold hardy down to -10 degrees. Even in near-freezing weather, its leaves stay green. While it can survive milder winters in zone 6, it won’t make it through colder ones.

Dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon Japonicus ‘Nanus’) – This small variety grows between 4 to 6 inches tall and around 8 inches wide. It puts out white or lavender flowers and blue berries. Beyond its size and flower color, it’s otherwise similar to standard mondo grass.

Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’) – Although it’s a different species from standard mondo grass, this plant has similar growth habits and care requirements. It’s best known for the purplish-black color of its leaves, but the pink flowers it produces are an added benefit. It’s also larger than the other common mondo grass varieties, growing up to 12 inches high and 12 to 24 inches across.

Giving Mondo Grass a Place in Your Garden

Mondo grass owes a large part of its popularity to the variety of ways it can be used. For dwarf mondo grass, groundcover is the most common use. It’s an ideal lawn alternative if you want lush green grounds without the hassle of maintaining turf grass. Once a few plants are in place, they spread to create a lawn-like cover. This variety is a notoriously slow grower, though, so your lawn will take a few years to fill in.

It’s perfect for areas of deep shade and can even grow under black walnut trees. It’s also well suited to slopes where grass doesn’t grow well. Mondo grass is a traditional groundcover in Japanese gardens, where it’s planted around stepping stones and statues, under trees, and in flowing shapes around gravel beds.

Because it stops growing at a low height, you won’t need to — and, in fact, you shouldn’t — mow it. The downside is that mondo grass is more delicate than turf grass. Dwarf mondo grass can tolerate being walked on every now and then, but regular foot traffic will destroy it. If you’ll need to walk through an area planted with mondo grass, install stepping stones or another type of path.

The plant is moderately pet-friendly. While it can stand up to dogs running and playing, it doesn’t handle their digging or urinating as easily. That said, it still tends to fare better than most turf grass.

Because it’s small and slow growing, dwarf mondo grass performs well as a houseplant. Plant it in well-draining potting soil or potting mix and place it in a shady or partially shady spot.

Standard-sized and black mondo grass are more often grown as ornamental plants. As edging plants, they create soft, informal borders between garden beds and the lawn or walkways. Their medium height helps them hold back plants in a planting bed without overwhelming them. Mondo grass is especially useful if you need an edge that’s wider and higher than the one you’d get with strip or masonry edging.

As an ornamental plant, mondo grass’ fountain of deeply colored leaves and the soothing sound they make as they rustle in the wind makes the plant a pleasant addition to seating areas. The flowers tend to get lost among the leaves, so they’re not a major reason to grow the plant.  

All mondo grass varieties have good salt tolerance, allowing them to thrive in coastal gardens. Because the plant does well in the shade of trees and deer tend to avoid it, it’s a good pick for gardens in forested areas.

Mondo Grass Care Requirements

Mondo grass is easy to care for once established, but getting it established takes some preparation. In most climates, it can grow in anything between full sun to full shade, but it thrives in filtered sunlight. The more sun the plant gets, the lighter the leaf color will be. In a hot climate, though, a shady location is a must. Choose a location with well-draining soil or improve the soil drainage by working in 3 or 4 inches of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure.  

It’s possible to grow the plant from seed, but most gardeners buy packs of plugs for a quicker start. Small plug plants can be planted as they are. If you’re propagating a larger plant, separate the plant into groups of two to four stolons. Plant standard and black mondo grass 6 to 12 inches apart and dwarf mondo grass 2 to 4 inches apart, depending on how fast you want the area covered. Through propagation by division, it’s possible to create an entire border from just one plant, although it will take years.

The only thing mondo grass is truly picky about is watering. Water it when the soil becomes dry down to 1 inch, which is usually once or twice a week in a moderate climate. Aim to keep the soil slightly moist during dry weather, but don’t let it become oversaturated because this plant doesn’t appreciate soggy feet. In general, mondo grass tolerates underwatering better than overwatering.

Mondo grass needs little fertilizing and often does well with none at all. It’s usually enough to apply a slow-release 10-10-10 fertilizer formulated for trees and shrubs once a year in early spring.

Mondo grass isn’t especially prone to pests or disease, but watch out for slugs and snails in damp, cool periods and fungal infections in damp, warm periods. Root rot, caused by the pathogen Pythium splendens, is one of the most common problems and brown leaf tips are usually the first sign. You might also notice the top of the plant is easy to pull away from the roots. To treat the condition, apply a fungicide formulated for this pathogen and topdress the soil with organic matter.

In spring, trim off any dead or broken leaves to keep the plant looking neat.

This plant spreads slowly, but it does spread, so you’ll need to do a little work to keep it in check. To keep it in a defined area, install strip edging or other edging material around it. For single plants or small groups, control their size by dividing the clump every three or four years in early spring. To do this, dig up the plant, taking care to unearth as many of its tuberous roots as you can, and gently pull the clump apart. Replant the new clumps where you want them. To corral daughter plants that have sprung up outside the main planting area, simply dig them up and replant them elsewhere.

Mondo grass isn’t a slow-grower everywhere, though. In the warm, humid Southern U.S., it flourishes so well it can easily become invasive. If you live in the South, talk with a plant nursery worker about mondo grass’ growth habits in your area.

As a lawn alternative, dwarf mondo grass can give you a lush expanse of green with less effort than turf grass and many other groundcovers. Standard and black mondo grass work well for a garden bed border that’s striking enough to stand out, but won’t detract from your flowers. Even a single mondo grass plant in an urn planter can dress up a dull corner of the garden.

Start your mondo grass off with the right light and soil conditions, take care with watering, and the plants should do well with minimal extra attention.

Some tree stumps might work fine as planters, but others only get in the way, look unsightly, and attract ants, termites, and other pests. If you have a stump in the latter category, there are a few ways you can get rid of if. Which tree stump removal method is right for you depends on the size of the stump, the equipment you have, and the amount of effort you want to invest.

Grinding: Quick and Practical

Grinding the stump into mulch is one of the fastest and most practical ways to get rid of the wood above ground. Most of the root system is left in place, so you won’t end up with a big hole.

To do the job efficiently, you’ll need a stump grinder. This machine is equipped with a high-speed rotating cutting wheel that chips away at the wood as you repeatedly run the machine over the stump. The stump is ground progressively lower until it’s below ground level. You can get the job done with a chainsaw or stump grinder chainsaw attachment, but the process will take longer. Keep in mind that using a chainsaw alone to grind down a large stump can destroy a small or old chainsaw.

Stump grinding’s downside is cost. Both renting a stump grinder and hiring a professional cost more than other stump removal methods. For a single small stump, you’ll spend less money, but more time and effort by pulling, burning or rotting the stump. 

While you can rent a stump grinder, if you have just one large stump, hiring a professional will get you faster, better results. A landscaper who offers this service will have a high-power stump grinder and know how to use it. Landscapers typically charge a minimum fee of around $200, and that increases with the number of stumps. To get rid of a yard full of stumps, it’s generally cheaper to rent a stump grinder and do the work yourself.

If you decide to do it yourself, start by digging out the stump so you can cut it as close to the ground as possible. Turn the stump grinder on, then position the cutting wheel over the stump and move it slowly right to left in sections. Keep going until the stump is around 5 to 6 inches below ground level. When you’re done, cover the area with soil and replant grass or other plants. Use the leftover wood shavings as mulch.

Pulling: Fast, but High-Risk

For stumps smaller than 15 inches in diameter, pulling is usually the easiest and most affordable removal option. You can safely pull a small stump with a farm jack, also called a handyman jack. Bolt the ends of two 2×4s to the top of the jack to form a tripod. Place the tripod over the stump with the jack on one side and the two 2×4s on the other. Wrap a chain securely around the base of the stump enough times to form a strong grip. Hook the chain onto the jack’s arm and work the jack to gradually lift the stump.

For a larger stump, you’ll need a tractor or a larger four-wheel drive vehicle. A two-wheel drive truck or car is unlikely to get the traction needed to pull the stump, especially on dirt or grass. Prepare carefully because the risk of something going wrong is high. If the chain snaps, it can whip back and injure someone or damage your property. If the stump comes out suddenly, it can go flying into the back of your vehicle.

Use a heavy, high-quality chain or tow rope that can handle the stress. Start by digging around the stump and cutting as many of the roots as you can to loosen it from the ground. Wrap the chain or rope low around the base of the stump. Attach the chain or rope to your vehicle’s tow package. If your vehicle doesn’t have a tow package, attach the chain or rope to the metal frame, not to a door or other part that could break off. Drive forward slowly to pull the stump out of the ground.

Burning: Perfect for an Evening Outdoors

Burning a stump away isn’t difficult, but the time required makes it somewhat impractical. That said, if you’re looking for an excuse to enjoy more backyard campfires, burning a stump is the perfect solution. A large stump can take several hours to burn, so it should give you two or three evenings around the campfire.

Before you set your stump on fire, contact your local fire department to make sure there aren’t any burn bans in effect. To burn well, the stump should be dry. If you’ve just cut down the tree, waiting a full year before you burn the stump will give you the best results. Even then, it still might not be dry enough to burn well if it’s been getting wet in every rain shower. Keeping it covered for a week before you burn it can help.

If you want to turn your stump into a campfire, build a ring of rocks around it to contain the fire. Clear the ground of any flammable materials, such as dry leaves. Dig out the stump to expose as much of the surfaces as possible.

Then add material to help the stump burn. Drill two holes of around 8 to 10 inches deep into the top of the trunk, then pour several capfuls of kerosene (never gasoline) into each. Wait two weeks to let the wood absorb the kerosene. Surround the bottom of the stump with a layer of charcoal, then add firewood and kindling. Now you’re ready to light your fire.

Using potassium nitrate (saltpeter) to help the fire along also makes quick work of the stump. To use this chemical, first drill several holes of 8 to 10 inches deep and spaced 3 to 4 inches apart into the top and sides of the stump. Pour around 3 ounces of potassium nitrate into each hole. Add hot water to each hole to dissolve the potassium nitrate. Add charcoal or firewood to the stump and light it.

If you’re not concerned with enjoying the fire, burning the stump under a barrel will give you more freedom to do other things while the fire is burning. Even so, never leave the fire completely unattended. To make a burn barrel from a 55-gallon steel drum, cut a triangular hole in the bottom and a rectangular hole in the side near the top to allow for airflow. Position bricks or concrete blocks around the stump to keep the barrel off the ground. Place the barrel upside down over the stump, add firewood and kindling through the triangular hole, then light the wood.

After the fire dies down, any remaining wood, including the roots, can smolder for days. If the stump is in a dry area or surrounded by brush, thoroughly douse the fire with water before you leave for the day.

Rotting: Easy, but Slow

Letting the stump rot takes the least amount of effort, but it’s also the slowest method. Burying the stump in soil and leaving it alone is the simplest approach, but the stump will take years to rot this way. To help the natural rotting process along, completely bury the stump with compost to create a favorable environment for fungi. Water the stump occasionally to keep it moist and turn the compost every two weeks to allow airflow. This also promotes fungi growth. Within 8 to 10 weeks, the stump should be soft enough to remove with a shovel.

Powdered stump removers formulated to speed up rotting are available, but they’re only minimally effective. Most of these are based on potassium nitrate, which breaks the wood down to a spongy consistency. High-nitrogen fertilizer, such as 45-0-0, works as a cheaper alternative to potassium nitrate stump removers.

To apply either product, drill 8- to 10-inch holes throughout the stump, pour in your stump remover of choice, add water and wait. If you used potassium nitrite, keep kids and pets away from the stump. After 6 to 8 weeks, the stump should be soft enough to remove. Because potassium nitrate burns well, some stump remover manufacturers recommend burning the rotten stump rather than cutting or digging it out.

Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) is another helpful stump-rotting chemical. Over the course of several months, it draws moisture out of the wood, making it brittle and easy to break up. Apply Epsom salt to the stump as you would any other powdered chemical stump remover or dissolved in water. To apply dissolved salt, mix 1 gallon (8 lbs) of Epsom salt in 2 gallons of water and pour the solution over the stump. Cover the stump with a plastic tarp to keep the wood dry and reapply the Epsom salt every two to three weeks. This method is slow acting, so you might need to wait up to six months.

Left to its own devices, a stump can take as long as 10 years to break down. If you want to get rid of an ugly or inconvenient stump faster, grinding is often the safest and fastest option.

While pulling is a quick stump removal method, it’s also easy to get wrong and carries a relatively high risk of property damage or injury. Go this route only if you have the right equipment. Burning takes minimal effort, and you’ll get a few hours of cozy light and warmth out of the stump. If you don’t mind the stump hanging around for a few months longer, encouraging it to rot will save you some labor.